How to walk more then 1 sheepie?
Currently I'm using the choke chain that has the prongs on it, you know the one that looks really evil. My vet recommended it and it works, but Hendrix still pulls. If we want to get another Sheepie my husband says we have to get Hendrix under control first. Any suggestions? We tried the gentle leader but it seemed to rip Hendrix's hair out! |
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| I've never heard of a dog who could or would still pull with a prong collar on... are you sure it is fitted properly? It has to fit just so in order to work properly.... |
| Yep, it's on there right. He only does it when he there's another dog. |
| Yes... get control of Hendrix first.
As Willowsprite says, make sure you're using the collar properly. I believe it should NOT be loose or sloppy fitting but rather fitted and worn higher up on the neck to be effective. And I believe a quick pop/release is what is required for the correction... you don't allow the dog to continue to pull. I prefer not to use them but I have used them in the past and will again if necessary. It will make a dog walk nicely and eventually learn to allow the leash to be slack. It comes down to the safety of the human and the dog. It's not safe if a dog is dragging you down the road... you do not have control of the dog and this can be dangerous. Just learn to properly use this collar if all other methods have failed... it is an effective tool. Here is an article on properly fitting it BUT ask your vet if the advice is proper/accurate FIRST. http://www.leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm |
I had visited this site before but had not read about the Dominant Dog collar. I had a prong collar come apart once... it looks like it might be a good safety to have in place. http://www.leerburg.com/746.htm
 Should probably mention that this site trains dogs for protection and police service dogs... I'm not suggesting anything other than the info on how to properly fit the collar. It's one of those things where you take only what applies to you and disregard the rest. |
| Instead of the gentle leader my vet suggested a regular leather collar and flat leather lead. Pull the collar high up on the neck and wrap the lead around the nose (top and under) and thru the collar. It is the same resuls as the gentle leader but Emmie does MUCH better this way! If she walks nicely she wears it the normal way, the first time she pulls we wrap it around her nose and we have a perfect girl....the best thing is it only takes seconds.
When my kids get home I'll have them take a picture and post it. Laurie |
| I took Barney through the normal novice obedience classes and although used the check chain (choke collar), popping it to train him to heel, I was never able to effectively walk him without pulling. When I got Maggie and due to her behavior issues, brought in a trainer, we spent the first session together walking Maggie with the check chain. We never popped it, there were no treats. I was taught to start with Maggie sitting in the heel position, give the "heel" command, and head toward a specific object (tree) and walk at a normal gait with my hand holding the leash loose, but locked to by belt buckle. She had no choice but to come along. If she forged ahead, I did an about turn and ran in the opposite direction. A few of these resulted in her discovering 2 things. The most comfortable place to walk is along side of me; and its better to pay attention to me than smell the daisies. When reaching my desired first objective I made a right turn toward another tree; etc. etc completing the square. Before the 1 hour session was completed she was walking at heel with the leash hung loosely over my shoulder. I came home and did the same thing with Barney. By the end of the week I was walking both dogs with leashes hung over my shoulders; however because Maggie was so dominant toward Barney, I continued to walk them to this day, Maggie on my right, Barney on my left. with leashes hung over my shoulder. When we reach intersections, I stop and they sit automatically.
Using this method with two other dogs, I have achieved the same quick results. Dogs quickly learn that the location along side their master and attention to the masters movement is the "comfort zone". I will admit that on occasion, to get more instantaneous results for the obedience trials, I have used the pinch (prong) collar. If you have any doubts about its "humaneness" Put in on your leg, over a pair of light pants (simulating the effect of the dogs coat), and give it a good yank. I think it is more humane than the check chain, and used properly will never damage the dogs esophagous(sp). Rather it simulates the pinch correction the bitch giver her pups by mouthing them on the neck. The check chain wont cause damage either if used properly; but too many people use it like they're trying to pull a hay wagon out of the mud! |
Willowsprite wrote: I've never heard of a dog who could or would still pull with a prong collar on... are you sure it is fitted properly? It has to fit just so in order to work properly.... Mulligan still puls with the prong collar, but not nearly as much as he used to, and a correction will stop him from pulling now.
Back in the day he would still pull, but not as hard as without it. Today without it, he'll still pull. It's a long road. |
| I use the gentle leader. I stop when there is any tension in the leash and only moving when the tension is released. I also rarely let them stop and sniff because I like to be in charge and when they sniff, they want to wander and lose sight of the mission. I was trying to do the change direction thing, but I found it irritated me whereas I stay very calm when I just stop and wait.
Its taken a while but every week is better than the last. At this point, with one dog they get it perfectly. It is a bit harder with two because they jockey for position, but still very manageable. |
| This sounds really silly, but I think what really makes a big difference in walking multiple dogs is your own confidence. You gotta walk 'em like you own 'em. I don't let mine cross the threshold of the door to leave until I'm ready to leave. I keep them on short leashes for about half a block, head up high, not looking at them. If anyone starts to wander, I do a a quick pull to bring them back in. I don't stop and make them follow me, which can be a challenge since they weigh over double what I do. By the time I get to the end of the block, they've found their order and drop in line next to me. If anyone acts up, I just correct and keep walking. I try to distract them by continuing to move before they get a chance to pull.
Although I used to be a big fan of a 6 foot leash, I find that when I just walk the boys, I just like a 12 inch lead for each of them. That way when the leash slacks, I don't have to hold 10 feet of leash off the ground. I know this isn't much in way of direction in helping you, but at least it gives you hope that it is possible! |
Jill, did Cesar teach you that  ....although you have been rather quiet about him lately...and changed your avatar....mmmm |
bestdogsx4 wrote: Jill, did Cesar teach you that
....although you have been rather quiet about him lately...and changed your avatar....mmmmLol. It is totally a Cesar move-- I didn't even think about that. He's apparently rubbed off on me more than I thought! |
| Definitely good suggestions above.
The collar is just a tool, the key lies in You and your mental attitude. Your dog will only be as good as your expectations. Ollie started from a pup with his plain buckle collar and went to training for obedience and herding with just that. He knew we expected him to behave, and he did. By the way, his initial training was done by my daughter, she was 14 when we got him. She did obedience in 4-H, showed him in conformation in AKC, and later I did herding and therapy dog work with him. Bart came to us at age 3, with work needed. He has been through 4 class periods of training, and already knows he is expected to heel nicely on a loose lead. He still needs reminders, but he is doing very well. He is being trained with just a martingale collar. We reward with praise and positive touch - no treats. If you are having difficulties, contact a trainer to help you. There is no reason to suffer through walks with your dog pulling you!  |
ButtersStotch wrote: I don't let mine cross the threshold of the door to leave until I'm ready to leave. I keep them on short leashes for about half a block, head up high, not looking at them. If anyone starts to wander, I do a a quick pull to bring them back in. . . . If anyone acts up, I just correct and keep walking. I try to distract them by continuing to move before they get a chance to pull.
! That's actually a pretty good description of how I do it too but it took a few months for me to get to that point. I make them sit and wait before going out of the door and then again when I am locking the door. They don't start walking til I say OK. All I've got to do is give them a quick flick of the leash as a reminder not to pull. To get to this point, though, I did alot of refusing to move when they were pulling out way ahead of me and they learned to come back into position. I also found that walking quickly and assertively was important, at least in the beginning stages. Now we can amble, but at the beginning they would get less attentive if I walked slowly. . . |
Good points, Val. It was a sloow process getting them to this point. It takes a lot of patience. It does make it much easier once one has it down because the others follow. Clyde and Bear sit on their own and wait as soon as I grab the leashes. Lucy needs a little more coaxing. SHe's old so I cut her a little more slack.  |
| George, how old were the pups when you taught them this method for walking? Allie will be 5mths August 1st, 80% of the time she walks pretty good...The 20% is when we run into other dogs and people. She wants to be with them right away! I really feel this is a puppy stage, so have argued with my husband about getting the Prong collar for a few more months....Was wondering if she would be to young to try your way? |
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