Pin Brush Falling Apart.
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| I've been giving my Christianson Brush a good beating and it's holding up really well. Expensive, but I believe they also guarantee their product. |
| I went through 3 pet pin brushes and then bought a goody brush for humans. the goody has lasted. |
| Sorry, thought the Christensen brushes were lifetime guaranteed but it's only 6 months. Here's a copy of their warranty from their web site if anyone is interested. I am really happy with their brushes though. http://www.chrissystems.com/newpage12.htm
I also love their "White on White" shampoo. Really makes the whites look clean. |
| I've got a Hindes straight pin brush and have had really good luck with it. It's been in the bathtub, chewed and abused and hasn't lost a single pin. Check eBay-- I got a heck of a deal on mine. |
I'm on my second Hindes already. The first one had the same problem Toot's is having with hers. The whole pad that holds the pins came apart from the wooden base.  |
| It is well known that the rubber part of the Hindes brushes pulls away from the handle. Best thing to do is as soon as this starts (or I do it as soon as I get the brush) is pull the rubber part out and superglue it back into place. The superglue seems to hold it. You may have to do some touch-up with the glue as time goes by.
These brushes are great. And if it takes a little extra "personalization" for them to stay together it is worth it. |
| Toot,
Earlier this year I posted several replies about pin brush use and maintenance at: http://forum.oes.org/viewtopic.php?t=22 ... c&start=45 and http://forum.oes.org/viewtopic.php?t=2469 The first post on page 4 of the first referenced thread is the one most relevant to you right now. The pads on ALL pin brushes will eventually rupture out of the groove that holds them in the handle. While it is annoying when it happens in the middle of a grooming session, especially if you don't have a new one in reserve it is really not a big deal. When the first "pucker" of the pad occurs set it aside and groom with your reserve brush. After finishing the grooming session take a few minutes to "renew your failing brush. First gently remove the entire pad from the brush. Be careful not to pull hard or "jerk" the pad as it can tear and that will be the end of that brush. Once you have gently "peeled" the pad out of the handle sand the old glue out of the handle groove, use 120 or 150 grit sandpaper and be sure to remove all the old glue and wood dust as well as any sandpaper grit from the handle. Next gently "scuff" the pad perimeter with sandpaper to remove as much dried glue as possible and provide a "tooth" where the new glue can adhere. Clean and dry the pad removing any remaining debris. Using a good polyeurathane glue such as "gorilla glue" squeeze a small continuous bead all around the groove in the handle. The glue bead should be about 1/16-3/32" in diameter, any more and it will ooze out when the pad is re-installed. Make sure the glue bead is in the groove and not on the flat back of the handle. Replace the pad by inserting one of the "long" curved sides into its place starting at the centre and then gently working the rest of the pad into place. Try not to push the pins or "flatten" the pad in the centre so that it touches the handle. (Remember the pad is "domed" to provide a proper cushion to the pins.) Once you have worked the pad back into place carefully wipe any excess glue off the pad/handle interface area and set the brush aside so the glue can cure for a minimum of 24 hours. Note: Be careful not to get polyeurathane glue on your fingers. If you do the only way to get it off is to wear it off. This is really tough stuff!! Once repaired the polyeurathane glue will hold the pad firmly in the handle until the brush actually wears out. I have conducted this repair on many brushes and none have had a repeat pad rupture failure. This has included brushes by Hindes, Safari and various of the #1 All Systems brushes. Pad ruptures are intrinsic to commercial brushes as they use inexpensive glues during assembly, part of keeping the price down a bit, however the cost of good glue versus premium glue wouldn't be a big issue to the consumer, perhaps $.50 per brush. Again as mentioned in some of my other posts brushes do wear out. The pins constantly "pivot" on their holes in the pads and eventually those holes become enlargened and the pad looses is resiliance. When this starts to happen the pins "sink" into the pad and need to be pulled up before use. This is easy maintenace but as the brush ages the pad continues to loose resiliance and the holes continue to enlarge resulting in this "sinking" occuring more and more frequently until you are pulling the pins up several times per grooming session. At this point the brush is "life expired" and should be discarded. The other wear mode of the brush is bending of the pins. My rule of thumb is that if a total of 5 pins are bent, or if two bent pins are within 5 pins of each other then the brush is worn out and should be discarded. A good brush by Hindes, Safari, #1 All Systems or Chris Christensen should last the average OES parent about 1.5 to 2 years under a "normal" grooming regiment. Even so I strongly recommend having a second new one in hand at all times. I go through brushes in about 4-5 months but remember I am grooming 2 OES and 2 Afghan hounds all in full show coat. As soon as you need to use the "reserve" brush order a new reserve brush to be sure you don't end up without a functional brush when you need it. Hope this helps. As always don't hesitate to ask questions if I haven't been clear enough or if you need further information. Thanks and Cheers Carl |
| While I was writing my last post El Gato contributed,
Quote: Best thing to do is as soon as this starts (or I do it as soon as I get the brush) is pull the rubber part out and superglue it back into place. The superglue seems to hold it. I would recommend against using superglues for this purpose. While superglue is very strong it is also very brittle and relies solely on "mechanical keying" to hold parts together. Given the constantly varying stresses exerted on the pad/groove interface superglues would be much more prone to failure than either a polyeurathane or hide glue which had some resiliance in it's bond. I generaly wait for the pad to rupture by itself as that gives me a starting weak-point to remove it. Pulling the pad out before this occurs increases the risk of tearing the pad during removal. But I wholly endorse El Gato's summation: Quote: These brushes are great. And if it takes a little extra "personalization" for them to stay together it is worth it
Thanks and Cheers Carl |
| Thanks for all the replys I have already ordered a reserve pin brush and will get some gorilla glue.Thanks again this web site is great I love it. ps I love The picture on your Avitar MR. Lindon |
| Thanks Carl. I try to learn something new everyday, and today it was about glue!
Gorilla Glue it is! |
| I was searching the internet for "Gorilla Glue" and "dogs" and came up with the post about repairing a pin brush with Gorilla Glue.
I want to caution you about Gorilla Glue - my dog, Peanut, a 60 pound lab mix, had a $1000 surgery on Monday to remove a hardened foam ball of Gorilla Glue from his stomach. Apparently it tastes really good to dogs. Peanut rooted out some in the garage where I had it stored (obviously not well enough out of reach). Because it expands on contact with water, it created a bloated, stomach-shaped ball of foam that could have killed him without the emergency surgery. Thankfully he is doing very well now. Please use caution! Following is a link on the subject: http://www.thepittsburghchannel.com/cal ... etail.html Thanks, Heidi heidi@portlandcreativehealing.com |
| Well, yuck. I guess Jack would eat that.
I second Gorilla glue to put a pin brush back together. While I'm sure Carl's job is neater than mine, the brush has held together nicely now for over two years. I know which one it is as there's a glue gob I didn't remove. Helps identify the brushes,  |
Carl Lindon wrote: A good brush by Hindes, Safari, #1 All Systems or Chris Christensen should last the average OES parent about 1.5 to 2 years under a "normal" grooming regiment. Even so I strongly recommend having a second new one in hand at all times. I go through brushes in about 4-5 months but remember I am grooming 2 OES and 2 Afghan hounds all in full show coat. As soon as you need to use the "reserve" brush order a new reserve brush to be sure you don't end up without a functional brush when you need it.
Hope this helps. As always don't hesitate to ask questions if I haven't been clear enough or if you need further information. Thanks and Cheers Carl Carl, where do you suggest buying these types... I've gone to some websites, but the prices seem so cheap... Am I really looking for a brush for $13.95?? |
| I know I'm not Carl, but I thought I'd pipe up anyway! The Hindes one is pretty cheap-- I think I only paid about $10 for mine. I think my All Systems one was around $15. I got both of those from eBay. I love the Chris Christensen one the most, though. That one is around the $25 range. Go to www.chrissystems.com If you have a dog show coming up in your area, check out the vendors there. You should be able to compare and contrast what you like the best. |
Quote: Carl, where do you suggest buying these types...
I've gone to some websites, but the prices seem so cheap... Am I really looking for a brush for $13.95?? Alias Dad, Yes the Hindes 6060 at www.needsndesires.com is my prefered brush, even if it's "cheap" one. Every now and then you can get good tools inexpensively! I just bought 3 of them about a month ago so that should keep me and my gang going for about 6 months. If you are just brushing 1 dog then a brush should last something over a year. You might want to get a #1 All Systems BR7903 as a "finishing brush" to get the most lift and body to the coat. The BR7902 is a fairly good alternative to the Hindes 6060 but I would avoid the BR 702, it is just too firm a pad. I have looked at and even tried the Chris Christensen brushes adn whlie they have very nicely polished pin ends I am not as happy with their suspension pad. In spite of their claims I find it too stiff. I'm also not convinced that they are worth the premium price, especially when their "lifetime guaranttee" is really only 6 months long. Whichever brush you choose just make sure to have a new one in reserve and be ready to reglue the pad. Thanks and Cheers Carl |
| I find the Christenson one too stiff too... I prefer #1All Systems...
Another thing is to pull out any bent pins, if pins are bent not only will you rip out healthy coat, but it will cause more drag, and therefore more wear on the whole brush. |
I'm opposite on this topic. I like the Chris Christiansen brushes better. I was stuck on #1 All Systems for a long time until I tried the CC #35G (I think that's the number  ). I think it does a nicer job on a longer coat and moves through hair better.
A couple of the other girls have bought this brush and are using it on their shorter coated dogs and seem to like it. I don't really like using it on Carl with his short hair but he's a weird dog anyway! This brush will run you a pretty penny though. Depending on where you get it it can be between 35 and 40 dollars. I would definitely visit a dog show and put your hands on some brushed to see what feels good to you. You can price compare on the internet to see what some average prices are. www.cherrybrook.com is the big company that is at most of the shows around here. You can also try www.petedge.com I think they had the name brand brushes there as well. If you end up ordering off of the internet, watch the shipping prices. Some of the stores have good prices on their products and hammer you with shipping! |
Carl Lindon wrote: Quote: Carl, where do you suggest buying these types... I've gone to some websites, but the prices seem so cheap... Am I really looking for a brush for $13.95?? Alias Dad, Yes the Hindes 6060 at www.needsndesires.com is my prefered brush, even if it's "cheap" one. Every now and then you can get good tools inexpensively! I just bought 3 of them about a month ago so that should keep me and my gang going for about 6 months. If you are just brushing 1 dog then a brush should last something over a year. You might want to get a #1 All Systems BR7903 as a "finishing brush" to get the most lift and body to the coat. The BR7902 is a fairly good alternative to the Hindes 6060 but I would avoid the BR 702, it is just too firm a pad. I have looked at and even tried the Chris Christensen brushes adn whlie they have very nicely polished pin ends I am not as happy with their suspension pad. In spite of their claims I find it too stiff. I'm also not convinced that they are worth the premium price, especially when their "lifetime guaranttee" is really only 6 months long. Whichever brush you choose just make sure to have a new one in reserve and be ready to reglue the pad. Thanks and Cheers Carl Thanks Carl I need all the help I can get!!! |
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