Need Training Tips & Tricks for Young Rescue
Our rescue group just placed a young (10 month old) female Airedale in a new home about 1.5 weeks ago. The woman already had a young (1 yr old) male goldendoodle. The woman called me back after about a week and said she wants to give the dog back because of the following issues: - "plays aggressively" - "latched onto cheek of the doodle & wouldn't let go" - "went after her cats" - "poops & pees in house" (I put those all in quotes because that's how she described it to me. None of that could be true or it could be an exaggeration) - food gaurding But then she called me back 2 days later and says she wants to keep working with the little girl; that she is a sweetheart most of the time. I'm convinced there's nothing wrong with the dog. It's just that it's a young terrier (a lot of us know what young terriers are like), it's never been socialized with other dogs, the woman is older and doesn't have a grasp of proper training techniques (& maybe not a firm enough hand & will), the dog was just plopped into a new home, and her and doodle are just trying to figure out the pecking order. I told her when I did the home visit that the dog would probably need obedience class and she agreed with me. When we dropped the dog off, I told her it was going to take a few weeks for her to unpack her luggage and find her place within the pack. So that brings me to my request. It's been years since I really had to work with a puppy for training. I'm looking for tips & tricks I can share with the woman to help ease the transition of the new dog into her house and to show the woman what she must be doing with BOTH her dogs and what she shouldn't be doing. I've already sent her the link to our local obedience school/club with the suggestion she take both her dogs there. I also told her that I would stop over during the weekend to observe the two dogs interacting and give tips & tricks. So guys, hit me with all the tips & tricks for integrating a new dog into the pack and tips & tricks for training young dogs. Thanks. |
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| The "Behavior" posts here under the subject "Dog Whisperer" may be of help to you. Excellent information. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=40215 Additionally, find a local trainer who teaches a "good manners" class, preferably in a class with a few other dogs for socialization. (Google for local trainers, check out the state search on CCPDT.org, etc.) Always set up a puppy up for success. All puppies need to have a routine schedule, to respect you as Alpha, and to have a place to rest that is conducive to their getting sound sleep (I recommend a crate). Some people swear by hand feeding and/or feeding 1/2 of the puppy's regular meal as treats while training. However you achieve it, the goal is for the puppy to connect that *all* food/rewards come from you, puppy earns *all* food/rewards, and *you* set the schedule. As with children, be consistent. Some puppies and young dogs become over-stimulated and "amped up." This happens in puppies/dogs who are otherwise well-behaved/easy to train, and in environments that seem quite ordinary to other puppies/dogs and to you. Their brains are temporarily on overload. It sounds as though this is what is happening with this puppy. You can train a puppy to cope with this. Please consider checking out the book Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out by Laura VanArendonk Baugh. It is a fast, very informative read and uses targeting and mat techniques that will serve both the puppy and his owner well. Note: my Agility trainer uses them in her Beginning/Advanced Foundation classes. There are no shortcuts to raising a puppy. I have raised two, in succession, in the past two years and numerous puppies over the past 4+ decades of training, showing, and breeding. Each one is different. Yet each one also wants to earn rewards and enjoy doing fun things with his/her master. Short training sessions at every opportunity that end on a high note are key. The advice and cheering on of a local trainer can be tremendously helpful, as well. |
| Tips and tricks once are only going to go so far if she doesn't have a firm enough hand and will. She is either going to need to get into a good training class or maybe come to the realization this may not be the dog for her. |
| Yes - You 1st need to assess if this lady can do what needs to be done. Also, most young doodles are extremely high energy - see what she has done with this dog. If her own dog is not well trained and responsive, than adding in another young and energetic dog is never going to work. Having that combo would test the abilities of most casual dog owners or foster homes. All that will happen is teach BOTH dogs undesirable habits and be no end of frustration to this lady. What is her background? Does she have experience in dog behavior and training? Successfully trained other dogs? Experience with terriers? Ability to see to the exercise needs - both physical and mental - of both of these dogs? Several years ago I fostered a young leggy (bad BYB) basset boy. He had come into our rescue in WI as a puppy. He was a handful - most people don't get that bassets are hunting dogs, and not slugs - especially when young. He bounced around in several foster homes, and even spent time being boarded (we don't have a facility - dogs are in real homes unless emergencies crop up - then we have arrangements with a couple kennels) when no one could (or would) foster him. I finally couldn't stand it - I researched him, and found out he was now nearly 18 months old, and had basically grown up in rescue. I had him transported to me in MN,and we started a rehab campaign. He was busy, had no concept of structure or rules of any kind of behavior besides being potty trained, but SO delightful and loving. He soaked up our house rules like a sponge, and my daughter took him to my obedience classes. She loved working with him, and he became our classes pet and star student. No one could believe that he was a rescue reject! I had pulled him from the listings while we rehabbed, and reposted him after a few months. I had the perfect application for him - a single guy in his 30's who worked and also was a part-time football coach at an area college in IA. He wanted a social, well behaved dog he could take out with him anywhere, go to practices, workouts and be his buddy. We each drove halfway for his meeting and adoption, and it was the best match. We corresponded for a couple years after, and he loves his Huey - and numerous times expressed amazement at his perfect dog - and also that he was previously considered unadoptable. He is my best success story - and it does reinforce that all the well meaning foster homes were great, but they can be the wrong match for a dog.  |
| Dawn, You were right. The doodle is crazy; a bundle of energy. He's a sweetheart though, super friendly; just a big love bug. He just doesn't know when to quit. He doesn't grasp when another dog or person has had enough. Nor does he have many manners. He's a jumper. The Airedale is a great dog. She is calm, relaxed, knows how to play the appropriate amount. No excessive jumping. She rarely even makes a noise. I asked them if she barked and they said only when she's outside and the neighbor lets out their Havanese. Other wise, she's quiet. I did notice that when she lies down, she kind of sigh/whines. They said she does that every now & then. Don't know what that means. I brought Brick so I got him out of the car to see how Tilly and he would get on. They did great together. Brick would paw her on the side & run & she'd chase him and she did the same thing back to him. Back inside, I did notice that the Airedale doesn't like the doodle coming up to the bowls while she is there. She'll let out a little growl at him if he tries. I, however, was able to reach right in & take her food with no problem. If he goes to the bowl first, she has no problem with him being there. The 'dale is still having issues with her housebreaking. I told the woman she needs to learn Tilly's "tell". I left the woman and her daughter with the following tips: - when they eat, separate them - when the doodle won't give the 'dale her space, crate him - get both dogs, especially the doodle, into a puppy class ASAP (the doodle needs more training help than the 'dale) - call SOTC ASAP to set up their training schedules - buy a training lead and work with both dogs (separately) on their commands. Don't forget the treats as rewards - if the dogs are misbehaving, roll them over on their backs and stare them down, telling them "no". - be firmer with them; don't be afraid of holding them from a position of superiority and making them look at you while you correct them - make your voice as low and loud as possible I think that's about it. It sounds like they really love the 'dale and I think they realize that a lot of the issues arise because of the doodle. I told them a trainer would be able to give them more info on how to modify the doodle's behavior than I ever could. The woman made an appt on the 23rd with a groomer to get the 'dale cleaned up & trimmed, so that's a good sign. She's also talking about getting the 'dale into the vet for a check-up; another good sign. But they kept saying very positive things about the 'dale while I was there. So that made me feel better. I think they're seeing that the 'dale is a sweet, well behaved dog that just needs a little help to be a perfect dog. And they also see the doodle needing more help to be a good canine citizen. After I left, I joked to myself if any dog should leave their household it should be the doodle.  (just kidding; he really is a sweetheart) |
| They leave the bowls down? Never a good idea when you are fostering, or don't have a stable pack. Or like me - if dogs come and go- it just sets a pattern and habit for when we DO have a new dog here. Around here dogs eat, and all dishes get picked up, washed, and put away until next feeding.The only thing left down is the water crock and water fountain (in 2 separate locations). All dogs deserve to eat in a calm, private setting. This is more important when they aren't a group who always lives together and always get along. Leaving dishes down just creates opportunity to have problems..so why do it? This also can be true of high value toys...better to remove them and use them in private time for that dog. I don't roll dogs - that is not always good - or safe. It was popular with some groups for awhile, but really has high potential for trouble. Especially with a human who isn't that skilled at dog behavior. And even more so when you are dealing with a dog and human who don't have a strong working relationship. For some dogs it would always be a wrong choice. Same thing for the stare down - eye contact is a challenge to a dog - and depending on the dog, it can create aggression, fear or worse. The dog you stare at who returns your look is not good - this dog is challenging you, not backing down - and by continuing to stare it down you are pushing all it's buttons.... and likely will launch at you when it moves. It seems the foster girl has a decent temperament...I hope the household can get the issues under control without more problems. And this is great Mark, that you are going to all this effort to help this dog..and as a bonus you are helping the people and the doodle too. They are very, very fortunate!! |
| Rolling is the only thing that worked for me when Brick was little. I tried a lot of the things the behaviorist said, but they only worked for a short time. Rolling seemed to be the only way for him to understand I was the boss. He did not like it one bit. He'd get mad at me but never lashed out. Then he would be pissed at me for the rest of the day .But just after a short time, I didn't need to do it anymore. I will tell them to get the dogs separate bowls, keep them in separate areas, and never leave the food down. |
| never roll them It is a bad idea..maybe worked for you but not the thing to do... |
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