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Awww sounds like you what you are doing (which would hardly be noticed by most dogs) is overwhelming for your special dog. My Maggie was a friendly but fearful submissive pee'er when I got her 7 years ago and it still resurfaces very occasionally. I tend to think they don't really need reprimanding or stern behavior. I think you can do what you need to do silently and the absence of praise will be enough for them to get it. I praise like crazy when they are good and just am matter of fact when I need them to stop doing something then praise like crazy when they are successfully redirected. I find the energy I put into communicating any annoyance or displeasure just comes back to bite me somehow. They are better when I am neutral to positive. Good luck! |
Ru had this problem (due to his submissive nature and a terrible puppyhood). He would pee himself if anybody spoke to him sternly or spoke sternly in his presence. I find making eye contact works really well with him because he is that submissive. The other day he did something rude and I said his name in a serious but quiet tone to get his attention then when he was looking at me I said, "No" in a quiet, soft but in charge voice. I making constant eye contact with him until he stopped what he was doing and walked over with his head low to "say sorry". I also avoid getting into his space when doing this.The important thing is to let them know that once he has stopped that it's over. Forgotten about and that they can go back to being happy dog; lots of praise and love. This has worked well and helped build up his confidence and trust in us, he hasn't had any incidents of this sorry for about 10 months. This would never work with my sheepie because it's too subtle... and he doesn't quite understand subtle cues. He is not the meek submissive dog that Ru is; for Leonard I tell him no and then usually have to calmly remove him from the situation and show him what the appropriate thing to do would be. (Example: Sheepie smashed a wine glass last night and I said "off" and "no" as he was trying to eat the glass, I had to remove him from the room and give him an appropriate toy while I cleaned up the mess). He isn't affected by this and is comfortable in every situation. Every dog is different! Good luck |
I agree with what Val said. I adopted Asia when she was about 8 mts old and because of the situation she came from she was a submissive peer. I found, just as Val did, that kindness was the best response. When she would start to go "into position" I would put a smile and kindness in my tone and say "let's go out" and go outside with her, sometimes lifting her bottom so she got the gist, and out the door we would go. She would then pee and I would praise the heck out of her. I've never used a mean voice to her or allowed anyone else to either. It hurts my heart when I think of what she must have gone through to get to the point that she became a "submissive peer". It didn't take long for Asia to stop this activity and she is a happy sweet loving girl. I've never found berating animals or people really get you very far. |
Thanks, everyone. The thing is, we've had her since she was 8 weeks old. She's only 17 months now and we have never been physical with her or done more than speak to her in a low, loud tone. She was the most laid back, submissive puppy in her litter, but she's a very well-loved and cared for and an amazingly well-behaved dog 99% of the time. We can walk her without a leash or the fear that she will run away too far ahead. |
She sounds like a lovely dog |
Sorry, I wasn't saying that I berated my dog... That wasn't the message I was trying to get across. I was simply explaining how to correct the dog without upsetting them. Growling and snapping aren't behaviours that are to be ignored as they don't fix themselves. Giving a verbal correction doesn't have to be loud or upsetting to the dog it is just about communicating that the behaviour is unwanted. Sometimes that is verbal communication (not loud or negative, just to get the dog's attention), some times it is body language cues to get your point across and sometimes it is redirecting the dog to a different place or activity. The point is to be non confrontational yet communicate your point; what this looks like depends on the dog. With one of my dogs simply looking at him conveys my point where as the other one I could look at all day and it wouldn't make a difference. Better than a correction is teaching the dog a skill to prevent the need for a correction (prevention is better than a cure). One skill that works really well for dogs who guard their toys or treats from humans is teaching "off" (or leave it, I have heard both) if we have to take something away from Ru we simply say "leave it" and he will happily leave it. Then he gets praise for giving us the toy; this is handy if your dog gets ahold of something dangerous or something that isn't theirs. This may take some time and patience to teach but it would teach the dog a skill that would prevent having to give a correction at all. We are still working on it with our new puppy, it is a valuable skill to have. Here is a link to a way to teach the skill that you could do as a training game with Wigglebee. The way you present it is a game, games are fun and engaging and when the dog figures it out it helps with their confidence. This is similar to how we were shown the skill in a doggy obedience and behaviour class, we use the word "off" instead of leave it and then give the "take it" cue when the dog gets a treat. http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/leave-it.html Another great resource is the book, "Before and After Getting Your Puppy" by Ian Dunbar. A lot of what is in the book is available online at http://www.dogstardaily.com/ I find his approach works really well with shy dogs as the whole point is building their confidence and trust. Sorry that my earlier post seemed unclear. Good luck with Wigglebee, she sounds like a good girl |
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