Found this on the internet & good read. part 2
GROOMING & PRESENTATION of the OLD ENGLISH SHEEPDOG From the moment a puppy is collected from the breeder, the beautiful cuddly bundle with short black and white hair begins to grow and change. The black body coat grows out very quickly and a new lighter grey coat comes through. The tip of this coat then appears to turn brown and can be broken off with your fingers. The white coat grows longer and quite fluffy. This is the best time to teach your puppy to lie on its side while you brush gently with a soft brush, thus getting him ready for more strenuous grooming sessions in future. By the time the dog is 21/2 to 3 years old he will have grown his mature coat which is a double coat consisting of a soft undercoat and a much harsher, profuse out er coat. The head, shoulders and legs (which are usually white) also change from the soft fluffy coat to the much harsher coat. To prepare the Old English for the show ring, one has to commence preparation quite a few weeks beforehand. First re-examine the ears (you' will have been doing this on a regular basis anyway), removing any excess hair which may be growing inside. Make sure the ears are clean and that there are no lumps of wax (which could cause a great deal of pain and make the dog rub his head against a wall losing his head coat in the process!) During your dog's show career don't let him play with a small puppy - it is so easy for the puppy to remove the dog's head coat, and this takes a long time to return. Next re-examine the feet for lumps of soil or mats between the pads (again you should have been doing this on a regular basis!) remove these and any hair which may be causing discomfort. I have seen many dogs in the ring which have been limping and upon examination they have been found to have a lump of chewing gum between their pads. To groom your dog thoroughly lay him on the table, spray rain water lightly on to his coat and then make a parting of the hair along the back and with the fingers separate any mats. Do not use the comb until the mats have been thoroughly broken up otherwise too much undercoat will be removed. I would suggest that the mats be broken into small pieces and combed out systematically. However there should not be too many of these if you are grooming your dog regularly! When one line of hair has been combed out brush the hairs upwards, taking care not to break off the guard hairs as you remove the undercoat, then start on another line, working in this way until the whole of one side of the dog is completed, special attention being given to the underparts of the body and behind the ears (watch out that you don't harm the nipples but wash any dirt off them) Reverse the dog and groom the other side in the same manner. Then stand the dog on the table and brush out the loose hair. Don't bath a dog until they have been thoroughly groomed and then only if the dog's coat is dirty or has been in the sea. Bathing is best done a week before the show, to enable the coat to return to the harshness and texture it should have. There is nothing worse than a judge going over one's dog and then that judge displaying how dirty their hands have become. Make sure you rinse away all the shampoo and repeat the whole process. Finally rinse off with fresh water until the water runs clear and there are no signs of soapy areas left. Immediately dry very thoroughly around the eyes and ears and squeeze as much water as possible from the legs. After the washing process, place the dog on a blanket covered table as this helps the drying process. Drying with a hair dryer, give special attention to the head coat to make every hair stand out until the head looks like a large puff ball. Shoulders should then be groomed to enable the coat to lie down close to the skin and then the hair of the loin should be dried "up and out" to make the rear end of your dog look as large and round as possible. Further emphasis should be given to the front legs, drying them from the feet upwards, brushing and lifting the hair to tease out the loose undercoat and to make the legs look as large as possible. The rear legs are done in a similar way but do take care that the heat of the hair dryer is very low when reaching the stomach and genitals. When exhibiting your dog should be trained to stand still whilst the judge is examining the head, mouth, eyes, bone, body etc. and then you must be able to move your dog on a loose lead in whichever direction the judge may ask you to go. When all the exhibits have been observed individually by the judge make sure you have got your dog standing correctly, groomed to perfection and do not forget to hold its head up in order to make a good impression for the judge's final analysis. A few tips for the show ring: 1. Never crowd other exhibitors. Your own dog can be shown to better advantage if a space is left before and after. 2. Don't race into the ring to be first. It is not only bad manners to push other exhibitors but a good well groomed, healthy dog will stand out no matter where they stand in line. 3. Do keep your dog under control in the ring. There is nothing worse than a dog jumping up and barking to upset all the other ones. 4. Practice well at home with your dog until you feel you and your dog are moving in harmony. When moving talk to your dog in order to keep them relaxed and happy. 5. Showing dogs is a hobby. Don't get upset with a judge or fellow exhibitors if your dog doesn't fulfil your hopes for that day. All judges don't interpret the Breed Standard in exactly the same way unfortunately! Therefore sometimes one wins and sometimes one doesn't. 6. Don't chalk and don't trim - your dog should be natural and well groomed. Watch the other exhibitors closely to see how winners look compared with the "also rans". Sometimes it is difficult to equate the fact that this is supposed to be a working breed when one sees the cosmetic results in the ring! If your dog has a tail, the tail should not be judged but the dog has to be seen to be as well presented and trained for the ring as the docked counterpart. ?First tailed OES to have qualified for Crufts - Jezebel - Barkbybrook Con Una Coda for Tailormade SHOWS SHOWS: Crufts NEC Birmingham usually March. Other shows to look out for are: W.E.L.K.S., Belfast; Birmingham Nat.; Scottish KC; S. Wales, Paignton; Nat. Working Breeds; E. England; Leeds; Bournemouth; Welsh KC; Scottish KC; City of Birmingham; Richmond; Darlington; Driffield; Midland Counties; Working Breeds of Scotland; L.K.A.; NE OES; NW OES; OES Club of Scotland; OES Club of N. Ireland; OES Club; SE OES Club; SW OES Club; Lancastrian OES Club; Midlands OES Club. OES Club of Wales etc. SHOWING Show and Registration Terminology Kennel Names - (Prefixes/Suffixes) - Assuming your puppy's breeder has registered the puppy with The Kennel Club, its name is likely to commence with the breeder's affix - in this case a prefix. Some better known affixes are Lamedazottels, Brinkley, Shepton, etc. If you plan to breed, you may apply to The Kennel Club for an affix for an annual fee. Your puppy could then have this affix attached to its registered Kennel Club name e.g. Shepton - (breeder's affix)then chosen name, say Utopia of/by/with/from - then your affix now as a suffix (say) Mutopia. End result = Shepton Utopia by Mutopia. Any puppies born to Utopia could be registered at The Kennel Club as Mutopia (the affix now is the prefix) and then any names you decide upon. My bitch is registered as Barkbybrook (affix of her breeder) Con una Coda (chosen name) for Tailormade (our affix used as a suffix. If she had puppies one could be registered as Tailormade (our affix now used as a prefix) Whoopee (chosen name) i.e. Tailormade Whoopee. Any purchaser may then wish to have registered their own affix as a suffix to that name. If you scan the pedigree that comes with your puppy you will be able to trace its lineage and if you go to dog shows you will probably spot one of the breeders of its antecedents in the show catalogue. On your puppy's pedigree you will probably notice some writing in red or alternatively with an asterisk beside the names and "Ch.". These will be the names of the dogs/bitches who have been made up to Champions at Championship Shows. Shows. There are various Shows which have to be held under The Kennel Club rules and if your dog is registered with The Kennel Club it is not supposed to enter un-regulated shows. To enter a show you first have to know which one you would like to go to and The Breed Club Secretary could help you with this or preferably take a "dog" paper such as "Our Dogs" or "Dog World" and these list shows together with the Secretary's name from whom you can obtain a schedule. Your entry form should be completed clearly and signed and returned to the Show Secretary with the cheque for entry fees by the closing date given. You have a responsibility not to take a sick dog to a show. Exemption Shows These are often Charity based Shows where because size and venue limit entries, the classes are often made up of "A.V" - Any Variety - of say, puppies over 6 months. There may be a separate class for each of the dogs and bitches. Dog classes usually take place first. Some times the classes are mixed and therefore no bitch in season should be shown. There are a variety of other classes that could follow, up to possibly Veteran Dog/Bitch. Open Shows. Judges at these Shows may not be someone from the Breed but may have acquired a good knowledge of the breed and have been accepted by The Kennel Club as a General Judge. This type of Show is particularly useful to the novice especially if it is a Breed Club Open Show. These shows will let you take the first steps in showing and give you a chance to observe others like yourself and to sum up the other dogs. The classes in these shows vary depending upon the likely numbers entering but there are almost certain to be puppy classes for dogs and bitches over 6 months of age. Other classes could include Maiden Bitch/Dog, Junior Bitch/Dog Postgraduate Bitch/Dog Limit Bitch/Dog Open Bitch/Dog and Veteran Bitch Dog. Veterans are usually over 7 years of age and may have been former Champions. The "professionals" are usually only seen at these shows when show training a young dog. Wins at an Open Show do not qualify Old English for entry to Crufts (currently) although some less well known breeds where there are few in the breed can sometime qualify at these Shows. Having said that, currently if an OES is the overall winner of the whole show as puppy or adult, then they do qualify. Open Shows are the stomping ground for future champions and the also rans. When you enter your dog get someone to take a photograph of you in the ring alongside the other competitors and also a video. Be very self critical of the photographic results and if you really can see no fault in your dog (read the breed standards carefully, watch for presentation, movement and cleanliness) then you can only presume that the judge was looking at something else when choosing their line up - it might even be the person on the end of the lead and not the dog! Championship Shows: Judges at these shows are specialist judges who may be able to judge more than one breed. However if it is a Breed Club Show it is more likely to be someone who has bred and owned the breed for a number of years who has been given judging status by The Kennel Club . Placings in certain classes at this type of Show qualify you for entry to - the big one - Crufts! Crufts is usually held about March time at the NEC Birmingham. To qualify, your dog has to get a 1st or 2nd in Puppy or Junior Classes or a 1st or 2nd (sometimes 3rd will qualify) in Limit Postgraduate and Open classes. A first (and second) can qualify your dog for life for entry whereas a third will only qualify for the next year. To enter limit classes you will see in the schedules that your dog should not have won more than five firsts in other competitions If they have, you have to enter the next class up - Postgraduate where no more than seven firsts should have been won. If they have, you have to enter the next class up which is Open to all dogs who qualify to enter. Should you be lucky to win your class then you will be in the final line up of all dogs/bitches for Best Dog/Bitch in Breed (unless you entered other classes but were beaten). The winner from the Best Dog and the Best Bitch in Breed can then go forward for Best in Show. The puppy classes also have a final line up for Best Puppy in Show. At Championship Shows the Breed winner having gained a Challenge Certificate then has to go before the Group Judge, i.e. the Pastoral Group Judge as that is now the category for Old English Sheepdogs (until 1998 is was called Working). If your Old English wins against all the other Pastoral breeds, it then goes forward again to be judged for Groups/Best in Show. The judges will usually all be different for all these stages. To be chosen as Best in Show your dog will have competed against the winners from all the other Groups: Toy, Gundog, Working, Hound and Utility. A Challenge Certificate has been won and a new Champion is on the way to being born! Three C.Cs. need to be won in one year under different judges to qualify a Champion. Crufts - when you have your qualifying win at a Championship Show you can apply about October time to The Kennel Club for an application form to enter Crufts. The classes are much the same as those for Championship Shows with the same procedure. To win Best in Show at Crufts is every breeders'/exhibitors' dream! To my knowledge an Old English has never won - probably just as well as the breed would become a rescue problem yet again! PET PASSPORT PET PASSPORT SCHEME - New rules apply from 2012 MISCELLANEOUS HOLIDAYS FOR YOU WITH YOUR DOG - Welcome Cottages and their Associate companies see websites SPINNER OF DOG/CAT/RABBIT) HAIR -(has a tailed OES herself with a “Shaggybow?” affix):- Mrs. Pam Gardner, 1 Norton Crescent, Towcester. Northants. NN12 6DW. Tel 01327 350025 COLLARS - (Please - never use chain choke collars or electric training collars). WATERPROOF JACKETS WITH LEGS - and extras such as boots and head cover can be made by and obtained from: - Country Mun see page 31 OR Weathertogs http://www.weathertogs.co.uk/prices.html The one pictured is from another source who has since given up. DEAF DOGS might benefit from the Pet Pager if given the right training and they are not scared of it. It vibrates on the neck collar. See http://www.britishdog.co.uk. The website lists other electric shock collar equipment which I would never recommend. HEAVY DUTY “BOOTIES”: - Paws & Co. 36 Fairfax Road, Swiss Cottage, London NW6 4HA Tel/Fax 0207 722 0035 enquiries@pawsandco.com £30 for polar (snow?) VAT and postage included. Need to measure back of large pad to front of front two pads. Sizes 1½” to 4”. 4” for big dogs. Type of footwear used by rescue dogs. "CLICKERS” for training plus instruction leaflet. Pet Behaviour Centre, Upper Street, DEFFORD. Worcs. WR8 9AB Tel. 01386 750615 Approx. £2-£3 Jezebel - Italy 2002 K9 LIGHT COLLARS - reflective plastic with velcro fastening and small red flashing lights. Ideal for night time and early morning walks. Usually available from Pet Shops. Large about £16. A "must" for any careful dog owner in winter evenings/mornings. There is a cheaper fluorescent tube version now available arund £4.99 but last only for the length of the battery NOISES ON TAPE FOR HELPING PUPPIES ADAPT WITHOUT FEAR TO A HUMAN LIFESTYLE! Jon Bowen BVSc Vet and Animal Behaviour Counsellor - information on tapes can be obtained on email:- john@soundsscary.com VACUUM CLEANERS: preferably with Turbo heads Electrolux/”Henry”/Dyson/Miele TATTOOING FOR IDENTIFICATION: Puppy £5 Adult £15 PO Box 3389, Manningtree, Essex CO11 2LN. Tel. 01206 397510 BOOTS CANVAS WATERPROOF (4) LARGE £19 + £1 P& P. VET BOOT virtually waterproof (each) large £11.50 + £1 p & p for injured pads etc. Also do RAIN COATS:- COUNTRY MUN, Bines Green, Partridge Green, Horsham. W. Sussex. RH13 8EH. Tel. 01403 711303 Fax 01403 710690 SWIMMING FOR DOGS - 1. Nick May Tel: 01302 325520 2.Murrayhill Boarding Kennels. Melton Mowbray, Leics. 3. Tarbay Farm Kennels, Oakley Green,Windsor Tel. 01753-868688 4. Greendale Farm, Bigmore Lane, Stokenchurch. Bucks Tel 01494-883294 CARTS FOR PARALYSED DOGS - Monica Hill Dog Mobile, collapsible cart Tel.: 01782-396427 or Bob Griffiths Tel: 01132-869979 SKIN PROBLEMS - Bob Grass's Skin Cures. Tel. 01302 344872 also try pureed spinach in dog food every day. EPILEPSY MAGAZINE; Phyllis Croft Foundation, 77 Upland Road, Billericay. Essex. DOGMANIA: 2 Mallard Hurn, Donington, Lincs. PE11 4XF Tel/Fax 01775-821110 (embroidered products for animal lovers) hankies etc. Naming these products does not indicate endorsement INTERNATIONAL OES MAGAZINE There is a quarterly (Feb., May, August, November) OES Euro magazine (German and English) circulated by Frau Colette Hornig. It is usually excellent value. It costs 42 Euros per year commencing in March and can be paid by credit card. Contact email is editor@oes.de Do consider getting it. Extract OES ARTICLE Extract from article by the late Eric Minett (?1950s) The origin of the OES remains a mystery which no amount of research has so far solved. A very similar breed figures in paintings of the 15th century by Durer and van Eyck. Some similarity is also seen in a painting "The Shepherd's Dog" by Rosa Bonheur in the Wallace collection. It is, perhaps, not surprising that there are so few paintings showing the breed in those days when one remembers the system of patronage and that the subject of portraits were almost sporting or lap dogs. Working dogs in those days in those days would obviously be disassociated from the Lords and Ladies. Amongst the various sheepdogs of other countries there is one, the E. Russian Ovwcharka* (*just means Sheepdog) which bears a strong resemblance but, be that as it may, the distinctive gait of the breed (the Bobtail roll) is not seen in any other. It is noteworthy that portraits of the breed in the middle of the last century show a very different dog from that of today. The coat was much shorter and less profuse, particularly on the head and legs. Its colour often brown or sable. In addition "bobbing" was not universal. Docking is, however, not a modern innovation and it would be true to say that nowadays it is the product of conformity. There are many theories connected with docking, some associated with ancient taboos but it is possible that a working dog with such a brush as an OES could carry would soon get into a filthy condition and this could be the reason for its adoption. In the latter half of the last century there were quite a number of specimens of the breed in existence, notably in Sussex, hence the occasional reference to the "Sussex Bobtail". As far as is known the start of true breeding was carried out by R. J. Lloyd Price of Rhiwlas who founded his stock from Sussex. He was followed by Parry Thomas and W. T. S. Tilley amongst others. Most of these early breeders concentrated on developing strong working stock and it was not until 1873 that a class for the breed was instituted at Birmingham Show which drew three exhibits. FAMOUS OES Mrs. Fare-Fosse was well known in 1899 for breeding a famous bitch called Champion Fairweather. At 9 months old, she was shown and won four firsts and the C.C. 3 weeks later she won a 2nd CC. and at Bristol just over a year later was made champion. She won 19 CCs in all and was the first breed record holder. She won 5 CCs at Crufts, a record that still stands. She can be seen preserved at the Tring Natural History Museum, Herts. From the turn of the century until 1914 about 180 dogs were registered with The Kennel Club and some 14 breed championship shows were held each year. A famous stud dog at this time was Ch. Tip Top Weather who was sold to the USA in 1916 for $4,000. His stock formed many of the post war dogs. Between 1918 and 1939 there were 3 well known kennels "Pickhurst", "Pastorale" and "Hillgarth". In 1947 CCs were first awarded at 6 shows. 274 dogs were registered that year and this gradually increased to 400 over the next 25 years. The came about the paint commercials and the breed became sought after. In the 70's registrations were over 5,500 and this caused many rescue problems. Championship shows with CCs increased and several well known dogs won these. Currently the breed record holder is Ch. Lameda-Zottel Flamboyant and his dam Ch. Zottel Miss Marple of Lameda holds the bitch CC record of 51 CCs. She has had 21 champion puppies - a world breed record. This is not a breed for everyone, despite its appeal; the coat can take 2-3 hours grooming weekly for a pet and much much more for a show dog. The rear end must be attended to and in inclement weather the compulsory daily walk will finish with a muddy and wet dog needing attention. A fastidious house owner should not consider this breed. OES are not suitable for flats if there is no garden access, plenty of nearby walks and space to exercise, nor should they be in a house without a garden or with owners who are out at work as these dogs need companionship and attention as the loneliness leads to boredom which in turn could lead to destruction of their surroundings. Several short walks a day are just as good as one long one and they are quite happy to run in a park or go to the shops but they do need company and to socialise with people and other dogs. A well cared and presentable OES is always a pleasure to meet and they will give you total undying loyalty for 10-12 + years. DOs AND DON'Ts A few "don'ts" as a result of accidents that have been told to me- Don't leave your dog off a lead near any roadside. Even the most trustworthy dog sometimes cannot resist the urge to chase a cat or they can be frightened by a car back-firing etc. Please don't exercise your dog alongside a bicycle - horrendous accidents do happen . Your dog needs the time to enjoy the outside environment where sniffing around and learning about the habitation in their surroundings are part of their natural instincts and this makes the exercise part of a learning process. Long jogs are really not to be recommended for the Old English and your dog may have a hidden health problem of which you may not have not been aware and then you could be causing undue suffering. Very short jogging periods are sometimes enjoyed by the younger dog but they'd be much happier with time to take in their surroundings! For those in wheelchairs, someone sells a metal rod that is attached to the wheelchair and the dog can be connected to the end of the rod. This prevents it seems, the dog getting run over by the wheelchair. Don't exercise your dog from a skateboard for the aforesaid reason of causing unnecessary injury and suffering to your dog. Don't let your dog's hair fall over its eyes unless the wind is blowing sand or debris into their face. Put a soft braid in. I know a breeder who was devastated when her unclipped dog smashed into a tree and had to be put down as its nose was split open and the Vet. could not save it. Don't leave your dogs alone in your car when the sun is out or when the air temperature is high. Check them regularly and leave a non-spill bowl of water in with them. Keep their ears and feet cool to reduce temperature (they sweat through these). Don't leave off a lead on walks near cliff edges/quarries etc. Have been known to run/fall over edge. Likewise don't let them jump up on walls as they can assume that the height of the wall on the far side is the same as the side they have jumped up on and could fall to their death if it is a steep drop on the other side. Don't leave your dog off the lead near sheep or farm animals. The farmer could shoot your dog if near his sheep and running free. Don't play tugging games with your dog – bad for a young dog's teeth. Can cause accidental and unintentional aggressiveness or injury. In the wild a dog would tug for possession of food and this is a natural instinct. If your dog is pacing around and cannot settle and doesn't want to lie down, you may have a dog in bad pain especially if yelps accompany movement. Don't wait, seek Veterinary attention immediately. Thoughts on squeaky toys and back to natrual instincts. Could it be possible that a dog will interpret squeaky noises as they might if still non-domesticated? A vulnerable prey? Don't leave a baby or toddler unattended with a dog |
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