Puppy drawing blood when we touch her chewies.
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Definately NOT too early to start training... Bloo (touch wood) hasnt been aggressive towards food before. But thats probably becasue ive always hand fed him, and i groom him while he eats his treats. He is kinda spoilt  Bloo is 1 now and he still nips and has before drawn blood (Those teeth are like razors!) But bloos nip is a playful nip and he only does it for attention.... My aunties got a schnauzer x and she is exactly the same as what youve descrbed in this thread...they just leave her be...everyone has their own opinions on these topics. Maybe others can help you....The only thing i can think of is maybe hand feeding her the food. Its gross, but i still do it with bloo.  As your pup is still a little baby, the sooner she feels comfortable around you the better. Dont hold her down as that can make her feel even more anxious and worried about humans. She only young and has to learn a lot. Im sure you will sort this out with everyones help. Good luck..keep us updated x sam |
| NO ~~never too early to begin training. Since your puppy is having food issues, you may want to get a trainer to come to your house for a couple of private lessons... (she is too young for group classes, as you probably know.) Call your breeder to see if her mom or dad had the same issues. Your breeder is your best friend in the first year of your puppies growth. Ex....Heart had such a paper fettish..paper towels, toilet paper, $20 bills~~ never chewed our shoes and was pretty perfect except for this problem. I called my breeder and asked her if this was normal..she laughed and stated that Heart came from a long long line of paper chewers. She did grow out of it, but it took what seems like forever ~~~~  oops..  I just reread your post RE your breeder. If she is a quality breeder she has notes on every puppy...which one was shy, which was fearful, which was aggressive, etc...maybe she has something that can help you deal with this....Good Luck..and keep us posted... |
| Resource guarding. There are numerous articles on the web. Training, professional training should be looked at soon!! Puppies are to some degree resource guarders.....survival of the fittest. But biting like this must be nipped now. Both of you need to know: you to avoid putting the dog into the situation and the dog learning it is not permitted. Puppies are trained from a much earlier age by their mothers, I don't suggest using mother dog techniques, you'll look silly with a puppy hanging from your mouth or holding the dog down with your mouth. |
Some puppies are naturally easy... others aren't. With dogs, the motto is, "He who has possession, owns it."  I'm not a trainer so I don't know if the following is appropriate with your puppy... it's just what I do...If the pup is coveting a chew, the puppy just doesn't get another chew for a while. When it's offered again, I keep hold of the chew (so the puppy never really owns it) and slowly train the puppy "out" or "drop". I ask for compliance by getting the puppy to release the chew for a small super excellent treat. As the pup releases the chew to take the treat, I mark it with the command "out" then again quickly stuff the chew back in it's mouth so the pup doesn't feel it has to aggressively reclaim the chew they voluntarily gave up...but I continue to keep hold of it. This is repeated and when the game is done, the pup gets maybe 4-5 small super good treats on the floor as I walk away with the chew to put it away out of sight. I believe this can help build trust between puppy and owner. Once this is well established, that the pup is relaxed, it sees I'm not a threat and that good/better things happen with this game, we move on to this... The puppy gets possession of the chew... I tell the pup "ouuuut". When the pup complies, I give a quick "Oh, that's a nice chewie", then stuff it back in their mouth or, if the pup isn't ready for that yet, we trade up... the chew for a super good treat. Then the chew is quickly returned to the pup. I do give the pup time to enjoy the chew though so I'm not viewed as a pest. If the pup reverts to coveting and negative reactions, we backup again to me keeping hold of the chew. I'm more for coaxing rather than forcing a dog when at all possible. I don't want to repeatedly bring about negative reactions that a dog begins to feel comfortable with. I don't pester a puppy when it's eating by invading a puppy's space. The pup gets their food, a couple of quick pats and the pup is left alone to eat. A new puppy doesn't know me so I need to repeatedly show by example that compliance and tolerance is beneficial to the dog. I do work toward being able to offer a super good treat while the pup is eating... eventually getting so I can place the treat in the dish (but not every day... just on occasion). When I go to pick up an empty food dish, it's offered back to the puppy to lick clean or refuse. Not all pups do well with just one approach so different training methods may be required. Hard to tell for sure what method will work for your dog so having a good trainer work with you may be the best approach. Best wishes to you both. |
| when mine were young I never let them have chews etc unless I was holding the other end as I was afraid they would choke on them. I also used to give the pup its dinner, hand fed by me and then with me stroking all the while they were eating. Someone might suggest something else but you need to do something fast before it becomes second nature. keep us posted |
| That is wonderful advice, thank you. I will try the positive reinforcement. I read an article by a dog behaviorist and was quite dismayed by what I read. We actually had decided to give the puppy back last night. There were oceans of tears. This puppy also came with a skin problem (lots of scabs) and has been itching constantly. The medication we put her on (antihistamines and steroids) can cause aggression, although it is rare. We really feel that we have been sent a puppy mill puppy. I did my homework as we have been down this road before, but when you can't go to the breeder you are really going on trust. He had two big litters at once and I just found a website where he is trying to sell to Japanese clients, and says he has 24 breeding dogs. The meds haven't helped her scratching at all, and I took her back to the vet. He strongly suspects mange. He can't see the mites, but that is quite common. It has been a horrible roller coaster ride so far, no sleep (scratching constantly and banging against the crate), serious biting, big vet bills. This is really not how we were hoping to get over the loss of our dog in February. Sigh. |
| Took her off the meds and she stopped biting. Thank goodness! |
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