Major Pulling Problem
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| You need to go to a class and have someone help you. Both your dogs would benefit greatly. The biggest thing is training the human and to change the way you handle yourself and the leash and the dog. Take a look at the video I posted in "pictures" of Bond, you can see the class working in the background. That is peoples' 2nd night of class!! They are doing wonderfully, and very few are now pulling.  And taking a 2nd dog out with one who has no leash manners is never going to work - it just magnifies the behavior.  |
| I second Dawn's suggestion - find a class (or a trainer who can work with you on this one issue) and continue to work with the dogs separately. Benson is a big puller, too. We've been been working with the techniques our trainer showed us, and she is making progress. In familiar situations, she is fantastic - head up, watching us for cues, nice loose lead. New situations, it's much harder to keep her attention on us. So it's practice, practice practice! Good luck. |
Don't be fooled by training classes, all the hounds are in on the act of behaving while there, then when they have you alone when out on their normal walks etc, they test you to see if you have learnt any of the training they have been taking you to!  |
| I am in no way an expert but something I learned and helps is the changing direction method. When Im walking one of my dogs and it starts to pull I turn around walk a few steps then turn back around the way I want to go. It takes a few times but it helps to keep them paying attention to me. With my big lab I use the mouth harness, it works GREAT with her. With my small lab and OES I use the body harness and a double leash, that way the have to go the same direction. Just dont give up. Training is for people as much as it is for the dogs. We all have to learn and continue working what we learn. Good luck.  |
| Kenny pulls like crazy on the normal leash so we got him the Gentle Leader thing that goes around his chest. When he pulls, it bunches his legs up and he falls or trips. He has now stopped pulling but a good trainer would be ideal. My work schedule just makes it hard to get him into a class although we really want to. Also, the misdirection technique i like a lot. When we're walking he'll start going down a hall and i just pull him back the other direction and let him know I'm making the decision, not him.  |
| My walk stops when I get pulled and then continues after my dogs return to me and give me eye contact. Sometimes they get a treat depending on how quickly they react. I want them to always remember that I am on the other end of the leash -- they are with me I'm not with them. It's also the Premack Principle -- they get what they want (to walk) when they do what I want (come back and look at me). I'm not an expert by any means, but have worked hard on this. My 2 old guys (Winston, 11 and Oliver, 10) used to be horrible at walk time. Running, leaping, barking -- total chaos. I would join right in yelling at them to stop, putting their leashes on as quickly as I could to get out of the house. I have since become a study of positive reinforcement training and life at my house has changed a lot. Winston doesn't get his leash on until he is calm. Sometimes that means I stop trying to put his leash on, sit down and wait until he is calm. Maybe multiple times. He's learning although I do walk him alone and he's quite well behaved. Oliver has learned to walk nicely on a leash because he walks with Greta who is a calm, even dog who walks right by my side. The two younguns (Mellie and James) don't continue if they don't walk nicely. My dogs have learned to look at me when I call their name and if I worry about a dog coming, pull them to the side and ask for attention. It takes A LOT of work, is continuous but it makes my walks with them so much more enjoyable for us all. There are some good books on controlled walking and I also use different harnesses / collars for each dogs. Sorry this is so long, but I think this is an issue for so many people. You are in control and that includes the walk. All good things come from you. If you find a trainer, try to find one who is a positive reinforcement trainer. My Mellie forced me into this type of training and I am sold. Hope your outings improve -- don't lose heart. |
| We are working on the pulling thing as well, and I am just wondering what length leash you all use? What is the best for control? Does it matter? We have several different lengths here. We use a D-ring all in one Lupine Collar. I don't use those retractable leashes. |
NJ_Sheepie wrote: We are working on the pulling thing as well, and I am just wondering what length leash you all use? What is the best for control? Does it matter? We have several different lengths here. We use a D-ring all in one Lupine Collar. I don't use those retractable leashes. Leashes are actually important! Getting one too wide and bulky will hinder you. Most people buy way too large (wide or heavy) of a lead, or a nylon lead, and it's a hindrance. My current favorite is a 6 foot cotton web training lead. I recommend them in class for my students. They are 5/8" wide and are easy on the hands. This is the brand we use, and they are ridiculously inexpensive as well. http://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Cotto ... B001EWC5S8 But the best part is, they are easy on the hands and easy to use! The light weight may make you skeptical, but I used one on a 140# Great Dane puppy I was training for a client - held him just fine. In fact it's still in use - I'm using it with Bond. |
| Moe pulled when he was a puppy AND wanted to chase cars.I started to use the gentle leader which stopped the pulling.I also used misdirection method.He is now on a regular collar. |
| Well i gave in and got a dog behaviourist to come and have a look at him. She gave me loads of paperwork on all different skills etc. I have brought him a canny collar which he is doing well on and also some large training leads so i can attach it to the canny and his personal collar for safety. He will slowly get there |
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