Questions about Agility table and tunnel
 )like alot of the other dogs are, but the tunnel. What to do?Lisa Frankie and Mattie |
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| All organizations have their own rules, which also includes the obstacles. AKC has a table as part of the standard class. CPE has no table in standard. So it really varies. I am going to use the AKC info, as for many it is what they are training and are likely to enter. Here is the info from the rule book regarding the table: 4. Pause Table. The top of the Pause Table is a 36-inch square, plus or minus (+/-) 2 inches, with a non-slip surface (carpeting may be used). The vertical edge of the top of the table top must be 3 inches or greater in height and it is recommended that the table edge be of a color in contrast to the running surface and ring gating. The table top must be light in color, no dark color(s) are allowed. The height of the table (within 1 inch) is 8 inches for the dogs in the 8-inch and 12-inch divisions, 16 inches for dogs in the 16-inch and 20-inch divisions, and 24 inches for dogs in the 24-inch and 26-inch divisions. Preferred Class Requirement: The Pause Table shall be set at 8 inches for the 4-, 8-, and 12-inch jump heights, and 16 inches for the 16- and 20-inch jump heights. Performance: The dog shall pause on the table for five cumulative seconds. The judge’s count shall start once all four (4) paws have touched the table (and the dog remains on the table top). Neither a sit or a down position shall be required. So - for example - Chewie jumps in the 20" (he jumps 20" jumps) preferred class - so his table height is 16 inches. Based on Frankie's hip issues, this would be the class I would have him in. It's for dogs over 22 inches - if they were in the regular class they would jump 24". Preferred is a category where for whatever reason, the handler prefers their dog to jump lower - preferred is always 4" lower than the normal height the dog would jump. I have Chewie in it as he is heavy enough boned that it's more work for his body to jump 24" - it's more of an effort. I chose to go Preferred and have him jump the lower height (20") and have it be easier on his body long term. Tunnel - Definitely take the leash off. It's actually dangerous to run that (and many agility obstacles) with a leash on. In fact several agility organizations make the dog run collarless for just that reason. How are they teaching the tunnel? It should be totally squished together 1st, then stretched out. Then slight bends in it. Then enough of a curve that they can't see the end. Then gradually bigger curves. Also, some tunnels are slightly opaque and let some light in. Some are thicker and are DARK inside...scary! If you are feeling stressed about it, he will pick up on it and pop out, or refuse it. Make it super fun and highly motivated. Really treat or play/ tug after each time for awhile. |
| I agree about the leash. Sometimes the leash is dangling behind and making noise and it scares them. If you are worried about the aggressive dogs, tell the instructor you are a bit fearful Frankie might go over to them and maybe the onwers can be vigilant about keeping their dog under control. In our class while we wait to do a run, we all sit behind a gate for that very reason. Only one dog runs at a time. With the tunnel, how about throwing a treat deep inside before letting him go in? Or have the instructor hold him on one end and you are the other end so he can see you? I'm sure he just needs to get used to this equipment as opposed to what you use home... |
| Agreed - dogs that are reactive to other dogs running the course need to be crated, distracted by their owners or removed from the room. And Frankie needs a good recall so he doesn't go over and pester them.  |
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