Popping out
Do I open the weaves a little again? Do I reward him for doing five or six? I want to do this right and I need some expert advice.... |
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| If he wasn't popping out when they were wider, open them back up a little, then when he's solid again, take them in half as much as you did before he started popping. He's not ready for straight line weaves yet. That's OK. It's not like he has to be perfect by next Wednesday. Better to systematically make it easy and obious for him. Don't reward his popping out, though, which you'll be doing if you settle for rewarding 5-6; even though it feels like you're rewarding effort, what he's really "hearing" is, hey, this'll do. He needs to be encouraged to complete them, so you take a step back and make it easier to do so in order to have something to reward. Ideally you should get some guidewires (or make some ) if you don't have any? I had to put them back on both ends for Dazzle. They help. A lot. He's probably popping because he doesn't have the ryhthym yet. He gets so far and then it catches up with him and he can't make the next bend. Sybil used to do that and I noticed Dazz was having a problem going from the 24" weaves in class to my 20" weaves at home, but she thought it through, slowed down a hair, and then got the hang of the new rhythm. Don't get frustrated by popping and so on - it's just valuable feed back. Kristine |
| Guide wires for sure and a target at the end. If he completes the weaves bait the target. The target teaches the dog to drive to it, complete the task at hand and not being so handler focused. If Simon has never used a target it may take a little getting used to. Have you ever used one with contacts? Once they learn a target they immediately understand where you want them to go whenever you use it. I am using it right now for obedience to send Harry out and away from me. He got so excited about using the target I had to hold him back when the person was demonstrating with her dog how to teach the behavior we were looking for. |
| Good point, Judi. Keep in mind that you have to beware smart dogs and targets....the thinking dog will quicky figure out that there is no need to do the weaves to get the reward. The solution there is to have someone helping you who can quick step in and remove target if dog faults. I work alone so with Mad I learned to toss a ball over her head, I was always behind her, as she started to exit. Your timing has to be pretty good, though. With Sybil my timing doesn't have to be as exact, I just toss tug ahead of her as she starts to exit. Dazz, for all her drive, is not so smart, so I can con her in many, many ways. These dogs are much easier to train  KB |
| Yes you do need an assistant sometimes. Mine (aka as beleaguered hubby) starts complaining after a while "are we almost done?" Unfortunately Harry is not picking up this exercise to be used in agility handling and so there is a lot of complaining going on.  I bet Randy is more agreeable than Tim on this. He will need to bait the target for you but honestly I use a clicker and if Harry does it correctly then I drop the food on the target. Since there is food involved he waits patiently for me to place his reward on the target. If Simon is food motivated you can always toss a Treat Bag with a draw string and he should drive to that. If he completes the exercise then he gets treated from said bag. Really the target is used for drive. Right now I think that guide wires would be your best bet. Here is a link to where I got mine - http://www.max200.com/max_storefront/sc ... roduct=645 I couldn't have taught Harry without them. If you get wires - let me know and I can give you tips on how to fade them. |
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