another disastrous story
MY point about the grooming....... This is the email the groomer sent me (it is the first time I used her) Quote: Hi Cathy, it tooks the 2 of us over 3 hours to groom. His fur was more then puppy length. I was able to brush out and deshed the dead undercoat. There was quite a bit of this. It should be a lot more manageable now. He had some matts on his stomach and ears. His ears are smelly and had some brown debris. Based on todays groom a full groom would be $125 and a bath would be $95. If you still want me to continue and be there on Tuesday please let me know. Thanks Deb They had to cut him so short..like 1-3 inches all over which is fine he is comfortable. I am so surprised how terrible he got in just 3 weeks time. He used to get groomed every week by a different groomer, but it is too expensive so I want to started brushing him out myself while his hair grows in and just get him one full groom per month. Do you think this is doable for someone like me who has NEVER even held a pet comb in her hand??? If so, what should I use? I've read some posts here, but some say pin brush, some say comb and others say...oh another type that I can't think of the name.. I've read the posts from Carlton which sounds wonderful about the line brushing and all I can say is....I WISH HE LIVED BY ME!!! I'm afraid I'm going to mess it all up. Any advice, suggestions anything would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all for reading this long long post. P.S Lucky is feeling much better and happy to be home. Quote: |
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| There are others on the forum who can give you better advice re grooming. But I just wanted to post a word of encouragement.
Up until I got Tiggy in April 08 I had always owned very short haired dogs, think dalmations and labs. I did lots of research and found this forum and I am keeping Tiggy in full coat. It does take me at least 4 hours a week maybe because she is still a crazy woman who runs around a lot and gets dirty a lot. I use a pin brush (one with no little plastic bobbles on the ends of the pins) and a comb. I spray Tiggy's coat with water as I line groom as per Carl's photo essay on this forum. Any questions I've had others on this forum and Lisa who lives near me have answered. I hope you got a refund from the camp as they did brush him as they were supposed to. |
| I haven't even talked to them yet..I was so upset and need to calm down before discussing it with him. Oh I just looked at Luckys legs...his fronts are full and the rear legs are shved down to the bone practically. They look aweful. I'll take pictures and show if I can.
Thanks for the response and encouragement Mim 
When his hair starts to grow out, will he be all uneven? |
| How old is Lucky? If he's going through a coat change, he could go from perfect to one giant mat in a matter of a few days even if he wasn't super active. |
It sounds to me like you'd be better off to have him shaved down (all over, tip of the nose to the butt, including the head) at least with a 3-3/4 blade right now. That way when the bare areas start growing hair, there won't be such a difference. For about 4 weeks or so you won't really have to do much. At the 4 week mark you want to start brushing him with a slicker as he will start getting some little mats behind his ears & under his chin. At the 2 month mark you can still be using the slicker but he should be in a cute "puppy cut" by that time....maybe about 2" all over. At that point you have to decide if you want to be dedicated & put him into full coat which will need a pin brush & slicker used on a very regular basis. You'll need about 4-6 hours a week to keep him looking pretty nice. Plus you are going to need to trim his feet & butt. Or if you want to keep him in a puppy cut (much more managable for those who actually have a life other than dogs  ) |
| Remember, brush the hair, not the skin. When it's growing out, you can easily scratch them thus putting an end to a dog who tolerates grooming.
I agree, if you are in the Puppy Morass.......the transition to adult hair takes hurculean efforts to keep brushed out, not a chore for a beginner or one not on the show circuit. If you find yourself in a loosing battle, clip it off and start over. It keeps growing back.......... |
| Lucky was born April 12 (Easter Sunday) so he is 7 months 5 days today. Is that at the transitioning stage? His hair is all choppy and uneven looking right now. What kind of brush should I use right now? I don't want to wait 4 weeks becasue I want him to get used to being brushed. He was getting groomed every week for a few months, but I doubt they did that line brushing. |
| Better to practice with him with LESS hair that ISN'T matted.
At 7 months it's usually still short enough that you can get away with not linebrushing. But the fact that he got that matted makes me wonder. It seems like it's a little early for puppy coat transition hell phase I, though that can vary by line, so who knows? Best advice (repeated from above): shave him down and start from scratch. That way it grows evenly and you both get to gradually work your way into this grooming thing. Do you have a grooming table? Doesn't need to be fancy, but boy will it save your back! Also, having him up high like that gives him less opportunity to try to escape 
At the beginning stage you probably need a slicker or two, a pin brush (no balls on the needles, please) - a greyhound comb, a "butt comb" (anyone have a good example?), and some blunt noses scissors are nice additions too. And since his ears get gunky, maybe an ear cleaning solution. Nail clippers for sure unless you decide to go with a dremmel. Scissors later when you get that far. Helps to have someone show you how to use them unless you're naturally talented that way. (I'm STILL on restricted scissors duty if the dog is in show coat , but otherwise permitted to trim and that's the way you learn. Well, that and having others critique your technique and show you various ways of doing things, and why.)
It's actually a lot more satisfying to do your own grooming. Kristine |
| I'm confused by this: Quote: It sounds to me like you'd be better off to have him shaved down (all over, tip of the nose to the butt, including the head) at least with a 3-3/4 blade right now. That way when the bare areas start growing hair, there won't be such a difference. For about 4 weeks or so you won't really have to do much. At the 4 week mark you want to start brushing him with a slicker as he will start getting some little mats behind his ears & under his chin. At the 2 month mark you can still be using the slicker but he should be in a cute "puppy cut" by that time....maybe about 2" all over.
You say shaved down with a 3-3/4 inch blade...does that mean 3 &3/4 inches? if so how will he then be 2 inches in 4 weeks? Also should I myself shave him or do you mean bring him back to the groomer? thanks I know I sound completely incompetent. Kristine....you mention at 7 months it is usually short enough to not have to line brush...Lucky's hair was about 6 inches... When should I start to line brush, at what length? One last question...how do I know when puppy hair is gone? He used to be jet black and is now almost completely gray where the black was, except his ears are still black...everywhere else the black turned gray. Thanks again for all the responses and support....it makes it a lot easier to breath around here |
| No, the #3 3/4 blade is the number of the blade. It'll give you a little over a half an inch. Here's a chart that might help-- it's pretty comprehensive.
http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/groomi ... per2.htm#0 |
| Ohhhhhh ha ha I told you I was totally ignorant in this area. Tthank you for clearing that up Butterscotch.
I asked the groomer for a receipt so I can give it to the trainer who is going to reimburse me and also asked her why she shaved his hind legs. This is her response...... Quote: Lucky's hind legs had a lot of undercoat built up. After brushing, washing and drying most of that excess undercoat had come out. I even up the hind legs.
Is this normal? Could Lucky have had undercoat on his hind legs? I thought undercoat was just on his back and sides....I feel soooo very uneducated in this. |
| I think Lucky is lucky you got him out of that training camp situation. I'm not a believer in sending the dog alone to a training camp for a few weeks. I think its too stressful and wonder the methods of training. Glad he is home with you.
As to the grooming....my dog was hospitalized for ten days and he got matted badly too in that short time. He also had shaved down legs almost to the skin from them moving the iv around. He was very uncomfortable as they sort of razor burned him in the hospital. What I did was little by little, I cut the matts out with a blunt tip scissor. Be careful when cutting mats out. Its possible to cut the skin - did that also once and my dog needed 6 stitches
I also shaved him close but not to the skin and yes, he looked a little "off" for a while but as it grew up, i kept it short and eventually it grew back evenly and looks nice. |
| OK had to laugh at the groomer saying a lot of undercoat build up DAH OES have double coats and most part is the wooly undercoat.
You are better to learn yourself, not only works out inexpensive in the long term, brushing yourself as they get older you also learn every inch of their bodies. In the long term prospect of things means also if anything out of the ordinary is noticed early. Now the coat is short, carls line grooming essay is a good way to start with learning to line groom right down to the skin. Coat transition at the moment better the coat is shorter now to start off with as it grows and you practice you will get a better handle on grooming right through your OES. A lot of people make the mistake of only top coat grooming and no grooming in layers right down to the skin level hence the dog does not look matty but when you part the coat the undercoat is all clumped at skin level. If you learn to groom yourself then maybe then only use a groomer for baths only and a dry. If you present the dog to a groomer all brushed through then there is no need for them to shave a dog. Also way more economical to learn to do the basics yourself.
Get a good pin brush, some scissors and Metal comb for a starter then as you go along and you get better then you can build on your own grooming equipment. If you have a sturdy table wether that is inside or outside, put a towel or old blanket over it and teach the dog to lay on the table while you are grooming. Easier on you back then trying to do them on a floor. If up on a table never leave the dog for a minute always on a table under supervision. You can teach them "Paws Up" that is taking there front paws, use the word as you place the front paws on the table then hoist the back end up, then gently flip the dog onto its side, eventually you only have to use the word for them to help you to get them onto a table for a grooming session. Then after help them off never let them jump off themselves. Grooming your own dog also brings you closer to them too, a good bonding experience for life and also allows you to be able to confidently know and touch every inch of there bodies as well |
| lisaoes said,
Quote: OK had to laugh at the groomer saying a lot of undercoat build up DAH OES have double coats and most part is the wooly undercoat. I knew something was wrong with what the groomer was saying...I just don't have the knowledge to say what you said!! Thank you Lisa Quote: A lot of people make the mistake of only top coat grooming and no grooming in layers right down to the skin level hence the dog does not look matty but when you part the coat the undercoat is all clumped at skin level.
So if I line groom, and make sure I see the skin, will this take care of top grooming? I decided to have the groomer (different groomer)come every other week for now. I will continue to comb him and learn while making sure he is still getting a good groom. This way if I'm not doing great at first at least I know he will be fully combed out every other week. Though I don't think groomers here know what line grooming is. There aren't many oes dogs here in Florida. I'm also a bit concerned about clipping the nails and cleaning the ears...How do I know if I'm getting too close to the part that bleeds...I think it's called the quick. Also what about damaging the ear canal? How do you learn how to do this? **sigh** will it really get easier? I haven't even started yet |
| If the groomer comes to your home, maybe you can stay while the grooming is being done and learn a few things. My groomer let me stay with her and I learned a tremendous amount.
If you are very worried about the nail clipping and the ear cleaning, your Vet can do that for you. I take my guy in for a nail clip and ear cleaning and it isn't expensive at all. Sometimes he does it as a courtesy if I am there form something else. My male had such strong thick nails, he broker their nail clipper  I think they use a dremel type thing now! |
| Ashley I never even thought of bringing him to the vet!!! That's a great idea. Do you bring yours once per month for the nail clip & ear cleaning?
I tried to pull a few hairs out of Luckys ear last night just to see....he just layed there and didn't even notice!! Weird. |
I don't have any advice on grooming, I'm still learning too. But I just wanted to say how bad I feel for you and lucky. It hurts us OES parents to see our kid in rough shape 
Andrea |
| Don't be afraid to clip nails or pluck ears. I will admit, I was very intimidated, too. I'm sure you will be very cautious and after you've done it once, it's really not a big deal.
If you have the powder for the ears and a hemastat to pull it out, they come out without difficulty. My dogs often sleep on the grooming table and don't notice their ears being plucked. |
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