Can you get them to enjoy it??
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| Sounds like the best solution for him is to shave him down. |
| Max, my 16 month old, also hates to be brushed. I just got back from a 10 day vacation, and when I retruned I had to also cut some of his mats out. I do try to keep Max in a puppy cut though. I haven't been able to recently because he had some bald spots due to an allergic reaction. He has a grooming appt next week to see if we can cut it. For some reason, at the groomer Max is very good, but once I start to brush, he wines, and then acts like I'm playing a game of cat and mouse with him. I wish I had some suggestions, but I don't. I don't mind the puppy cut though, it keeps him clean and cute. |
| Patience is the key. Start slow, gentle and for short periods of time. Maybe at first only brush a paw, then the next time you might beable to get a whole leg.
When my guy was a puppy, he was super squirrely when when groomed him. Thought a handfull of treats would keep him busy, but he would still sqirm while eating the treats. Before you know it he will sit still for longer periods of time. Good luck |
| When sofa Came home, she was terriby matted. So much that we had to shave her down and give her hair a chance to grow back nice and with a chance to be taken care of. They'll hate to get their mats pulled if they are too close to the skin and the best solution is to shave totally. After that, grooming will be more pleasant.
Putting your dog on a high place when grooming will calm them down a lot. I use a park bench for grooming ours, a 30 minute session every week has proven enough to keep them mat free... Since I don't really like the super fluff look, it's enough to keep the hair untangled and flowing when they run. I try to detangle the ocassional small mats and cut the large ones. They are both full coat (Sofa's still growing) and I love the looks, but it's like having to old mops running around the house, they pick every piece of garbage they find in the park and it's a pain to remove the seeds and debrief from them after they run in the park. If that's too much for you, consider the puppy cut or totally shaved... They look great anyway. |
| Dancer wouldn't sit still for grooming as a pup but she loves it now and will lay there for hours enjoying it, Sky was bouncy too until just this past week she seems to be starting to enjoy it and will lay still for me, but not for too long at once. |
| I would shave him and start from scratch. You can then maintain the long coat - but trying to dematt him will be painful and may cause him to dislike grooming forever.
If you shave him - then you can take it in small steps - brushing for a few minutes daily - even when it is short - so he realizes it doesn't have to hurt. JMHO. Kristen |
Lots of patience. We would have matted dogs come into the shop, and I would spend hours trying to get their matts out. If he's badly matted, I'd suggest a shave and starting over. I sometimes refused to comb out matts in dogs, because it just wasn't worth it to see the dog suffer so much. That's how matted they were. 
If he's not badly matted, just do a little day by day and take your time. Try brushing him a few minutes every day. We had some dogs come into our shop weekly for a bath & comb out (mostly maltese/yorkie/lhasa apso types) Some of my worst dogs starting out became my best with time. I hated leaving there that I got so attached to some of them, but I did still "baby-sit" (housesit) some when the owners went out of town.  Then, if he does great, offer him a treat! Treats seem to make dogs like anything better - kinda like kids...lol
Good luck! |
| Hi !
There is a good discussion on grooming, bathing, and how to get your dog to accept brushing on the New Hope Animal site. Its at : www.nhahonline.com (under dog info,grooming tips) We have had sheepdogs in both puppy cut and long coat. Its an individual decision, but the puppy cut is easier to manage and more comfortable for them in summer. Good luck !  |
| I also suggest grooming a few minutes per day, building up to longer periods. If you watch TV just do it then. The real trick is this, if it would hurt you it will hurt them they seem to be sensitive to pulling their hair. I hav also found it much faster and more comfortable to brush out about 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a time, just a few hairs. Groom in a long line down the body. Roger likes a slicker brush the most (it doesn't pull out the under coat)but you can't scrape the skin, I use it perpendiculat to the body as I do with most brushes most of the time. After about thre or four inches of the slicker brush (brushing at a 90 degree angle to the skin) I go back over that section with a pin brush. This gets the little mats in the undercoat the slicker brush leaves. Before you know it they will lay down for as long as you want them to. The key is it can't hurt, remember small amounts of hair at a time. |
| One other though, this may seem strange but the smaller the brush the better for me. I can't control large areas with a large brush I end up pulling the hair. |
| Hi DuncanJones. I've started learning about grooming sheepies too. Here's what I've learned so far. The type of brush is important. Some people like small brushes and some large but there are 2 key factors when selecting the right brush.
When brushing gently work on only a small patch at a time. Avoid brushes with the barbs at the end of the bristles. I like the brushes that Cherry Brook sells. Here's a link to the ones I've selected for me and Farley - http://www.cherrybrook.com/store/ProductDetails.aspx?parent=true&productID=50946 Speak to your sheepie while grooming. Low, gentle tone. Farley, though 53 lbs, is still a baby at just over 5 months old now and he started out not having much patience with grooming. "Come on ... let's wrestle," he says. But I sit/lay him down and speak to him in a wisper and tell him what a good boy he is while I attach bits of him. He's almost gotten to the point where he settles down within a few minutes. I only work him for about 15 minutes or so, depending on needs. I'll work him up to longer sessions as time goes on. Good luck![/url] |
| All,
Almost any dog can be trained to accept grooming and even enjoy it if there is "something in it" for them. For some the simple attention from their human is enough for them to lie there for hours on end, but for most there need to be more tangible rewards. In my opinion there are two major factors in training a dog for grooming. First is routine. Dogs are very much creatures of routine and if you train them early and repetitively they will at the very least accept what is required of them. Most will come to enjoy it when they see the pack leader (you) are pleased with them. Routine refers not only to the timing of grooming but also to the methodolgy. Grooming should be done in a location that is distinct and as much as possible seperate from where the dogs play, eat, sleep etc. The idea in this is to disassociate the grooming from other prefered activities and clearly indicate to the dog what is required. As much as possible groom your dog exactly the same way each time. If the dog knows what to expect he/she will be more accepting and more at ease. Varying things will only confuse them and raise their anxiety towards a procedure which is in and of itself quite invassive. While Martin and Virgil are very good on the table and continue to improve they haven't quite got to the point where they lift their arms or stretch out their neck in anticipation of those areas being brushed in their sequence. Our beloved Punk did! When I had finished grooming his side he would relax his back leg making it easier to grip and groom but most amazing was that when the back leg was done and I came around behind his shoulder he would lift his arm as much as possible for me to take it in my hand and groom it! A very special boy is playing with his sisters and awaiting us at the Rainbow bridge . The other primary factor is to bring the dog along slowly, both in terms of duration and "invasiveness". Few dogs are going to allow you to brush in their sensitive and/or private areas without a degree of "aclimatization". Start a puppy (as soon as he arrives home - often 10-12 weeks of age) out with short grooming sessions, 10 minutes and use soft grooming motions. At 12 weeks they need little brushing but this is now their lot in life and they need to be trained to make both their life and yours easier. After a week of the 10 minutes step it up to 15 minutes and so forth as both the need increases and the dog's maturity/responce allows. In areas that are tender or make the dog fidget start by just brushing the periphery but each session groom a little bit closer and more intently until you have, by subtly "increasing the exposure" taught the dog to accept grooming even in their least willing areas. As much as possible make grooming fun for your dog. Many have spoken of grooming sessions being a "wrestling match". While there are times when you have to physically impose your will on the dog do this as sparingly as possible. (Examples of this are when first teaching the dog to lie on the grooming table. You have no choice but to lay the dog down so he knows what position is required!) OES as a whole, indeed herding dogs who are by nature very independent and used to making their own decisions, don't like being physically dominated. Mantra here is - Minimum Force, Maximum Bribery!! They will respond to kind and loving treatment even under circumstances they would rather avoid. Speak to him/her in bright happy tones. Let them know how happy you are with them, that they are a good dog and that mommy/daddy is so very happy with their "such good boy/girl". Every 10-15 minutes, even in the middle of brushing out a line I will stop, briefly rub an ear and tell them how good they are and that I am sooo happy with them and give them a kiss on the nose. It take so little time but is very useful in keeping them settled and helps with the bonding I have so frequently noted grooming engenders. Most dogs are highly food oriented, exploit that for your benefit. Not a grooming session goes by with any of our boys where they don't get a number of reward treats. When they are laying down and have been good for a while give them a small treat (small slice of cheese, turkeydog slice or other such delicasy). When grooming is over give them a bigger treat. All of our boys absolutely love Pedigree Marrow Bones. Find your dog's Marrow Bone equivalent and use it as the ultimate reward after grooming. Once they associate laying still and allowing grooming all over with your happy tones and treats you will have the battle won!! Some dogs will never like being groomed but most will accept it once they know their good grooming manners make you happy. Like all training it takes time, energy and love. Your dog loves you and implicitly wants to make you happy so it very much comes down to you teaching him what is necessary for that and then giving appropriate rewards and respect to him/her. Like all things in life grooming is a give-take situation! I hope there is something of benefit here for those having grooming challenges. Cheers Carl |
| My dogs TDF treat is pedigree marrow bones too. LOL They know that they get one after grooming and will go right to the counter where they are kept and wait for it. Sky was absolutely great on the grooming table for hours yesterday, I didn't expect her to be so good, but she just laid back and enjoyed the attention. |
| The pedigree Marrow bones are my puppers favorite too! I think they Temptation treats for kitties just as much, though.
Stormi and co. |
| I too am getting my new pup used to grooming. Just wanted to say, thanks to all members for their comments on this topic. I've found vey helpful and reassuring knowing I am not the only one with a new pup who is not thrilled with the grooming rountine yet!
I have been having difficulty finding the pin brush without the nobs. I looked at the sites people refer to but I can't tell which brushes have the nobs or don't.. Can anyone direct me to the right place or give a item number? Also, any recommendations on scissors? Thanks. Diane |
Ashley wrote: I have been having difficulty finding the pin brush with the nobs. I looked at the sites people refer to but I can't tell which brushes have the nobs or don't.. Can anyone direct me to the right place or give a item number?
Thanks. Diane Here is my preference. #1 All Systems Pin Brush |
Ashley wrote: I have been having difficulty finding the pin brush with the nobs. I looked at the sites people refer to but I can't tell which brushes have the nobs or don't.. Can anyone direct me to the right place or give a item number?
Thanks. Diane Diane, I have had good success with the Hindes 6060 brush and received good service from Need 'N' Desires found at http://www.needsndesires.com/canadastor ... Hindes.php I do use #1 All Systems brushes for final "fluffing" at shows but rarely at home for general grooming. I use the BR 7901 and BR 7902 which have the very long pins but recommend the BR 7903 to people learning to groom. Be very careful using pin brushes with black pads as they are often too stiff for the OES coat and result in stripping out and braking a lot of coat. Of course the biggest "rule" is to never use a pin brush with any type of ball or nubb on the end of the pins as they will destroy your dog's coat in just a couple of grooming sessions. The scope of #1 All Systems brushes is illustrated at https://www.businessvision.net/Edge/Mai ... egoryID=65 I have further discussed pin brushes at https://www.businessvision.net/Edge/Mai ... egoryID=65 page 2 and at http://forum.oes.org/viewtopic.php?p=19833#19833 and http://forum.oes.org/viewtopic.php?p=19844#19844 Of course there are numerous other good posts in each of these threads as well as mine so the reading the entire thread would be of value to you. Scissors, apparently technically called shears, are a very personal choice depending on both what area you are trimming and what you want them to "feel" like when you use them. At the National Specialty in Oct 2005 I had the chance to "test drive" a few really good pair of shears and found an enormous difference in how they felt an performed. In the end I liked the C-MON straight 10.5" offsett handle serrated edge model 06105 and the C-MON curved 10.5" serrated edge 06101C for general trimming of the butt, back, head and feet outline. (I didn't like the laser finished edges becausr the hair moved as you closed the shears during the cut and I never felt comoftable that he hair was being cut where I wanted it cut.) They were not cheap though, over $110.00 each then, but when I can scrounge up the money these are going to be the "good" shears I will get for our boys. To trim between the pads a good set of safety scissors from a beauty supply store or pharmacy will probably meet your needs, I use clippers for that one though. As ever, don't hesitate to ask for further clarification or more information. Thanks and Cheers Carl |
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