CPE's and Questions
I'm thinking of doing some fun runs with Simon. You can use treats and there are few rules. Just to get some idea's and to get a feel for what the heck goes on there. Now for the really interesting part...Simon, at class last night(hadn't been there for a month) got on the teeter!!!!!!!!!! Course it was with TONS of treats and lots of help and it was just the down portion of it, but thats the first time in almost a year  Before that he wouldn't go anywhere near it.
Question:For those experts out there...how long did it take for your dog to learn how to do weaves? We are still doing it with the weaves far apart and Simon is just not getting it.  |
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Marley's uncle runs in CPE - (with his owner  ) she thinks its a great venue and has advised me to try it - if I ever get organized enough I might. |
| I have heard CPE is fun. If you have a trial near, you should go!!
About the weaves - no real help here. We have had 2 lessons and the weaves are channels, and they are virtually body width apart. Chewie can almost run straight thru, just a little wiggle needed. We are working on entrances, with him being sent thru by the instructor, me at the other end of the full set. He does that perfectly, and when we started offsetting his entrance, he entered correctly about 2/3 of the time. So, we also have a lot of work. 
I have my 6 weaves frozen in the ground outside. I figured I might as well stick them in this fall, that way if I get a halfway decent day, we can run thru them!!!  |
I missed the weaves question. we really don't have weaves, but i am going to try Susan Garrett's 2X2 method (12 Poles in 12 Days), but since it only will take 12 days  I am concentrating more on flatwork at home, and jumping right now. I am going to take the weaves class in February and work through those issues then. |
| Ack....I just talked to Chewie's agility instructor - we are on hold.
She hurt her back and can't walk, is on 3 pain meds. It is bad enough she is having someone else run her dogs in the trials this weekend and next weekend. (Really bad - she would never do that if she could even half move). She has an MRI tomorrow and probably will be having surgery, as she can't feel her leg.......  |
| sorry dawn - but if its as cold there as here it may be a good time to hold up with some videos. |
| Pam - CPE is supposed to be a great place to start a green dog. No teeter or weaves at the intro level Do you have Kathi McBride's contact info? As Kerry says, that's her main venue and she loves it. Lots of games, emphasis on fun. She keeps trying to convince me to try it but I just registered Sybil with USDAA since that's the other venue (in addition to AKC) that my club holds trials in, so they're pretty local to me plus I'll be there working anyway. Kathi has a good sense of what's good for OES though - I followed her into NADAC before the organization got increasingly...weird - and had a blast.
That said, don't be in quite such a hurry to get him in a trial. Why don't you start making the rounds at the various run-thrus Friday nights? Cudahy has one, Racine has one, Western Waukesha may have them, I'll check. And there are also a couple places that hold them on sporadic Sundays. In fact, Cream City (where I train) is having one this coming Sunday morning. You really should come. I'll be there with Sybil and Mace. I'll PM you the info, as well as the Racine and Cudahy schedule. Oh, and Wag, Kathi's club, holds them too periodically. I'll get that info too. It really pays to take him on the road, let him see new places, equipment and dogs and see how he reacts to that before you stick him in a trial
As for weaves, it takes a good long time if you can only work them in class. If there is one single piece oF equipment worth buying for practice, this one is it. They're not inexpensive, but I calculated with Belle (whose weaves were never very solid and whom I trained/trialed for several years before figuring this out - duh) that it wouldn't take a whole lot of "donated" entry fees due to not being very proficient to pay for a set of weavepoles
My own preference, if I needed to replace my set right now, is for a set of 12 channel weaves with a distance of 24" between the poles. And guidewires. It's one of those things that is best worked 5 minutes or so every day. When you only see them in class it just takes that much longer, though it is doable. Why are they still stuck so far out? Have you tried moving them in and he isn't getting it? If not, ask to have them moved. He'll probably surprise you. Only that last 1/2-1" to closed is actually hard for the dog because it changes what the obstacle looks like. You don't want them weaving with them wide open for months and months if you can help it since it probably isn't teaching them that much. All of which reminds me, I need to get back to working with Mace daily. Kerry, let me know how Susan's method works for you, please. Many people swear by it. Dawn - I'm really sorry. But as Kerry said, it is a good time to hole up. Not just with books and articles and videos, but you can do so much basic foundation work inside with just a couple-three jumps, a five foot long board and something that passes as a table. Most of Sybil's foundation work - I started her in class a year ago this week or next - was done in my living room
Kristine |
Mad Dog wrote: Pam - CPE is supposed to be a great place to start a green dog. No teeter or weaves at the intro level
Do you have Kathi McBride's contact info? As Kerry says, that's her main venue and she loves it. Lots of games, emphasis on fun. She keeps trying to convince me to try it but I just registered Sybil with USDAA since that's the other venue (in addition to AKC) that my club holds trials in, so they're pretty local to me plus I'll be there working anyway. Kathi has a good sense of what's good for OES though - I followed her into NADAC before the organization got increasingly...weird - and had a blast. As someone who spent time yesterday putting all local trials including NADAC on her calendar can I ask what you man by "weird"? As for weaves, it takes a good long time if you can only work them in class. If there is one single piece oF equipment worth buying for practice, this one is it. They're not inexpensive, but I calculated with Belle (whose weaves were never very solid and whom I trained/trialed for several years before figuring this out - duh) that it wouldn't take a whole lot of "donated" entry fees due to not being very proficient to pay for a set of weavepoles I bought everything to make my own set of twelve poles - last year. Now I am glad I never got around to it since I want to put them together in sets of two (somehow also seems more doable )Kerry, let me know how Susan's method works for you, please. Many people swear by it. Dawn - I'm really sorry. But as Kerry said, it is a good time to hole up. Not just with books and articles and videos, but you can do so much basic foundation work inside with just a couple-three jumps, a five foot long board and something that passes as a table. Most of Sybil's foundation work - I started her in class a year ago this week or next - was done in my living room We are concentrating (at home) on a lot of foundation work that doesn't require and equipment. even though Chewie has rally and obedience and pulling and mushing and backpacking (we need a Phew icon) experience, there is a lot of foundation flatwork that I find my dogs are lacking - the pre rear cross stuff is kicking Marley's and my butts this week. I am amazed at how watching a few videos and reading a couple of books is making my instructor feed back make more sense. Kristine SO Kristine at what level does CPE introduce teeter? if I made Marley run a course with out getting to play on the teeter she may go on strike  |
| [quote="kerry"]As someone who spent time yesterday putting all local trials including NADAC on her calendar can I ask what you man by "weird"?
Oh, they started changing the regulations almost week to week for a while. The emphasis is on wide, open courses (very good for OES), you never have to jump a dog higher than 20" and I think you can even run an OES at 16" depending on which "division" - or whatever they call it, it's been a while - you enter. It's all about speed and working a at a distance and for this reason Mad felt it was made for her. Unfortunately the speed tended to play into her jumping flat issue so we had more than our share of demolition courses But there is much good to be said about the course design.
It probably also played a part in my getting away with playing agility without actually having to learn the finer points of handling. But all that said, go for it! The courses are so fast and flowing they tend to be very motivational for both dog AND handler.
I like playing in different organizations because I feel like it broadens your scope. Plus in NADAC you can train in the ring (no cookies, but redo stuff up to a point - once you go into training mode you are no longer competing for a Q, though). My instructor suggested finding an ASCA trial because their regulations are still based on the "old" NADAC and they still offer gamblers. Of course, so does USDAA. Hit whatever organizations you want and just have fun with it. They all have their pros and cons. SO Kristine at what level does CPE introduce teeter? if I made Marley run a course with out getting to play on the teeter she may go on strike
Yeah - all of mine have felt the same way, but recall that Simon had a bad experience on the teeter. I'm not sure what level it comes into play as I've never run it. Here's their website: http://www.k9cpe.com/ Kristine |
| OK, now you got me curious. From the CPE regs (website noted above):
EFFECTIVE JANUARY 1, 2006 DOGS ENTERING THEIR FIRST CPE AGILITY TRIAL MAY BEGIN SHOWING AT NO HIGHER THAN LEVEL 3 Level 1 – recommended for beginning dogs OR handlers, who have not shown at an agility trial, or who may want additional ring experience at an easier level. The course has fewer obstacles, and does not include the Teeter-Totter or Weaves in Standard. If included in the games where allowed, the Teeter-Totter and Weaves must be optional. Any dog OR handler may begin showing in CPE in Level 1 regardless of their experience. Level 2 – recommended for dogs who may have earned the first title in another agility organization, or for a handler who has previously titled another dog in agility. Level 2 will include the Teeter-Totter and 5 to 8 weaves in Standard. Any dog OR handler may begin showing in CPE in Level 2 regardless of their experience. Level 3 - recommended for dogs who may have earned at least the first title or higher in one or more other agility organizations. |
| so we buy a teeter to have at our disposal and enter level 1 - at least once:)
what's your feeling about just competing at whatever is nearby - despite the venue/alphabet soup? I am trying (like a lot of people i would guess these days) to minimize driving - need to save up the miles to drive to St Louis . I am not concerned about titles - I know I know, but want to really just have fun and do some learning. poor Marley I will know so much more with the next dog. Good thing she really likes this stuff and continues despite my failures
this morning for some reason she decided we need to have a rousing game of fetch with a tennis ball she found. unfortunately she thought it was too cold out to play outside. luckily she was wiling to be distracted until Dan left for work, I don't think we broke anything and I am pretty sure I picked up everything she managed to knock down or over.   |
| Man! She is really loving life!!!
Of COURSE go to whatever trials are close regardless of organization. To title in any venue, you need experience. Who says the only organization and the only titles worthwhile are AKC???? In obedience and rally, I only do AKC. I enjoy it, but this is not what I live for. Others feel differently and want to do as much of what they love as they can, and why not? I do feel this way about agility so will play in different organizations. People who stick with one venue or one organization and focus all of their energy there do typically get more done in that organization title-wise and that's fine too. If they want that to be acknowledged by the breed club, then AKC is what is going to get them noticed. (Even in herding, which makes no sense to me since it appears to me that AHBA is better for our breed, but never mind). The only time I'd get a little - hm - negative about people titling in 14 different organizations is when I was reporting people's accomplishments in the OET and had to keep typing the 23 titles out after the dog's name
I mean, I was still impressed. But, you know, I'm LAZY
Have at it! CPE is pretty big in your neck of the woods. Convince her to do a few rounds in level 1 with a promise of if she does well, she can have her beloved teeter. I've seen your vehicle. What are you going to do? Strap a teeter to the roof?
Kristine |
| I'm heading into the dentist soon - my day off!
I plan on hitting the lumber yard too to make some stuff. Weather too crappy to do anything else today. I plan on assembling and practicing w/ my new jumps as soon as Todd wakes up.
(he's on nights this week) LOL about the livingroom, Kristine. You call it a living room, but it really is your own private training center. For those not in the know, it is devoid of any furniture and probably about 15x25 feet and carpeted. Lucky!!!  |
| well hubby does like furniture in the living room (go figure I guess it is to balance off the flat screen tv) so we have to practice in the basement when the weather is bad - or just too cold. what should I get to put down on the floor. since Marley is only jumping 24" now as part of our collected jump training I am concerned about jumping her in the basement until i get something down on the floor. |
| I always knew there was a reason I'm happy to be single...Imagine! Furniture in the livingroom!! What will they think of next!!
Anyway, yes, Dawn is correct, though it's slightly smaller 12 x 24' than she guestimated, but close (yes, I actually measured.) There are a couple of different ways to go in the basement. You can buy rubber matting, but it needs to be reasonably thick (i.e. not "obedience" mats which tend to be not only thin but slick ). Depending on the size, this can get expensive. Also, depending on the source and quantity it can cost a small fortune to ship it in. Still, may be worth considering for smaller areas.
A friend suggested I put artificial turf down (think indoor soccer arena). Well, if you've ever competed on the stuff, you know it has to be filled with tiny rubber pellets for cushioning (at least the type I've seen, and I train on it as well - love it!!!) This pelleting gets pepperered through sheepdog coats very efficiently (especially when you have a bitch who likes to roll on her back on it to get her tummy rubbed ). There have been times when I'm still picking it out of her coat in the show ring two days later...Not to mention last night when she decided to LICK the turf and I looked down to see her tongue covered with little black pellets and almost had a heart attack...
Again, depending on size, your best bet may be to find some large, cushy carpet remnants and somehow fasten them a bit to the floor if needed so they don't slide. Those are the only options I've been able to come up with at least. Kristine |
| hey, glad to know my estimating skills are still good!(the living room)
I got my wood - after a couple calls to Kristine who wouldn't answer her phone, I called Judi - and got a small piece to do random contact training and 2 6' lengths of 2x12 to make an adjustable height A frame (and all the hardware and paint and chain and sand.....). I also got a piece of plywood to make a table. I need to get the PVC, but figured I had enough to keep me busy this weekend.
Kerry - another option is the interlocking squares of rubber stuff used for kid's playareas or for fitness exercises. I have some from when we had classes on a cement floor - we used them in the spots we had the jumps. They aren't that expensive, they are super cushy and have held up well. OK, they would get expensive for the whole floor, but they work great for the impact areas. |
| Thanks Dawn I was wondering about those tiles and using them just around the jumps etc. I will look for some tomorrow.
I envy your energy - we still don't have an aframe - but we have so much foundation work to do. |
| LOL - you should see my kitchen. I have the slats glued on and they are drying. Next comes the 1st coat of paint.
Maybe I should take some pictures? |
got sheep wrote: I got my wood - after a couple calls to Kristine who wouldn't answer her phone, I called Judi - and got a small piece to do random contact training and 2 6' lengths of 2x12 to make an adjustable height A frame (and all the hardware and paint and chain and sand.....). I also got a piece of plywood to make a table. I need to get the PVC, but figured I had enough to keep me busy this weekend.
.Just as well -- I've never made anything resembling an A-frame and am still not sure what you're describing. Is it like the one Judi had at Sheepiepalooza? The board is the most important thing to teach an actual contact position. Once the dog understands this on the flat you can place it off your new table at an angle to start backchaining the contact position a la a dog walk.
As for the surface, I noticed last night at training that they had just redone the A-frame and dogwalk using some kind of rubber shavings instead of sand which I absolutely LOVE. Of course, I just redid my dogwalk this fall And my teeter isn't really in need of resurfacing either. But I'm seriously contemplating redoing them anyway. Not only did this obviate the sandpaper effect of the more traditional surfaces, it has a tiny bit of cushioning and, most importantly, my sense is that it will be slightly less slippery when wet. Mind you, I still don't know exactly what was used, but I intend to find out.
Yes, pictures of course, please! Kristine |
| I love following this thread because I am hoping to one day actually learn something (my brain is slow at times ) ... I think all you guys do sounds like a lot of fun (even with all the work involved!)
I just wanted to add one little, nearly off topic thing: Quote: A friend suggested I put artificial turf down (think indoor soccer arena). Well, if you've ever competed on the stuff, you know it has to be filled with tiny rubber pellets for cushioning (at least the type I've seen, and I train on it as well - love it!!!) This pelleting gets pepperered through sheepdog coats
We are a huge soccer family.. all my kids play, hubby plays as well as he and one son are referees when not playing... indoor and out (it's always soccer soccer soccer with them!) the little rubber pellets~~ OMG they get every where!! Everywhere!! They take off their shoes and dump the pellets out and it looks like little mouse terds all over. I have even had to threaten every soul in this house with death if they dump them on the floor in the mud room one more time!! I couldn't imagine trying to get them all out of a Sheepie coat |
Yes, we have the astroturf with the rubber pellets at the Paw too. Chewie gets them everywhere as well. 
But, he has a wonderful time playing on it and it is great for the frozen half of the year to have somewhere for him to run around with other dogs. Monday after class he got to play with the owner's rottie bitch - he and Zamika had a blast!!!! This picture is from March - nice to be out of the mud too! 
I didn't see how the A frame was put together - I am using hinges, so it can be a practice frame (lower) or with propping, a modified dog walk too. Pictures coming later today.
The rubberry stuff on the obstacles sounds interesting too. |
| I posted pictures of my project in the "pictures" section. |
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