Agility 101
DandAbi wrote: I am trying agility on my own make shift tire jump and weave poles just for the exposure since she came home. First I made a noodle jump- (the styrofoam noodles that kids use to float in the pool, I taped the ends together to make a circle cost- $98 cents). We got her used to it just for the idea of jumping through a round object; it was on the ground no height. I gradually added a few inches and then made a tire jump from irrigation equipment. It is on a stand and the height of the tire can be adjusted. Nothing fancy, cheap to make, and sturdy to boot. I've been letting her jump 19-20" since our sofa cushions are that height and she jumps on and off ALL the time. The weave poles I made from pvc pipe and tent poles (the poles you use to build the frame of a camping tent. They are very flexible cost $0 since we had a baby tent that no one uses). The tent poles are hammered in the grass and the pvc pipe slips over them and is not hammered in the grass. This makes the poles very flexible when she leans against them. I did add colored electrical tape to help visually (cost $0 since my hubby had the tape). I stopped goofing off with all of this when we had a warm spell and she was panting a bit too much. I don't know if I can continue with agility unless I find a place indoors and cooled. I am ever vigilant about the heat here and want her in full coat. But, your idea of using the jump from a sit to improve leg muscle is great. She has the equip., knows how to jump, loves it, and we can stop after a few reps. If I can figure out how to post a picture I'll add pictures if you're interested in my make shift agility equip.
Yes, I want to hear about puppy activities for fun. Tell Me More! Pictures please!!! Some puppy appropriate basic training to follow. Kristine |
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I hope these upload OK. Here goes...
 Weave Poles
 Tent Pole and Weave Pole
 Tire Jump |
| Contacts:
Three are three pieces of contact equipment: the A-frame, the dogwalk and the teeter. There are two things to be concerned about in terms of performance: safely traveling from one end to the other and making sure the dog hits the yellow zone - the contact zone - with at least one paw (or toe, for that matter  ) upon departure.
You need to start somewhere. The first part is determining how you are going to make sure your dog hits the contact zone. How will you achieve that? There are two basic, widespread methods: a running contact, or some kind of stop on or near the contact. Benefits of running contact: it's fast. Cons: unless you are a world class trainer - and even then - it's hard to teach the dog to stride just right so she always hits the contact. Trained not so wonderfully (i.e. the way I trained Belle) it can more appropriate be termed the "Hail, Mary" method (and I'm not Catholic...) Here is Belle about to hit a contact zone - or is she? 
She did and it earned her an agility High in Trial and solidified her winning the Most Versatile Performance Dog competition at the '07 national. A few inches off, and we would have had neither. In fact, my money was on neither. She hit it by LUCK. Some times the agility gods are kind that way. Most times not. Solid training is a better bet than praying to the agility gods (or spritizing your dog with Holy Water - don't ask  ). So with my next agility dogs, Mad & Liz, I decided to try to 2-on-2-off method, illustrated here by Liz:
This certainly gives you better odds of the dog hitting the zone. But look at the angle she's at and how much of her weight is on her forehand. Now imagine her slamming herself to a halt in that position at speed. You have to either teach them to rock back on their haunches properly, or... Agility dogs #4,5,&6 are all learning the one rear toe on method. I'll try to take pictures tonight. Basically the dog goes all the way to the bottom of the contact with only one rear toe (foot) in contact with the zone. This means they do not have to stop at that often awkward angle. Alternatively, you can teach the dog to stop at the bottom of the contact - I know one OES who does this very nicely stopping on the ground off the a-frame and has 2-on-2-off contacts on the teeter and dogwalk. I have to take my sorry training skills into consideration and try to make it a little easier for my dogs, so I need a concrete stop position - i.e. the bottom of the board, or I'd end up with a dog who leaps OFF the board, and then stops somewhere afterwards (knowing me and knowing my dogs). No matter what method you want to teach, here's what you can use to start: Get (or find one in your garage) a 12" wide board. Doesn't have to be a long one to start. In fact, a 4-5' leftover piece is just fine to begin with. Place flat on ground. Yes, flat. On ground. That's what makes it so puppy appropriate. But I'd start a seven year old dog the same way, and no matter what method. First order of business: make the board attractive to dog. Do you have a clicker? Know how to use one? If yes, dog approaches board, click-treat. Dog puts a foot on board (use your body if need to walk dog over towards board, don't expect to stand 20 feet away and assume she'll just go there on her own) click-treat (CT) Dog puts more feet on board - CT. You get the idea. No cookies (treats are tiny or your next post will be "how do I get 20 extra pounds off my agility dog?") if not on board. Cookies if feet (any at this point) on board. Dog likes cookies. Dog isn't stupid. Dog understands: feet on board good. Feet not on board - boring. Dog doesn't need to be walking length of board. That comes later. Key is not to rush. Oh, but it's so tempting to rush. Unless you've already trained three other dogs poorly. Then you know, "rushing = bad"  It pays to be slower and methodical. Honest.
Mantra as needed: better to take the time to teach it right the first time than take time off for the next seven-eight years to re-teach (also knowns as fixing) it. More to follow on this tonight after I've taken some photos (I hope!!) Some table hints in the interim. And this is an open discussion - those of you who are training agility (or have) pipe right in. Pictures of inexpensive and/or easy to make equipment you've designed for training purposes, what has and hasn't worked for you. What you love, what you hate, why? Why not pool what we've learned? Dee - pictures, please. You have some really cool design ideas. Kristine |
| I love your inexpensive ideas Dee. I think I have everything here at home to start my own backyard agility learning center. I love the pics. Now to convince hubby to take down the pool that nobody uses anyway to make room for dog fun. |
| Way to go Belle! Most Versatile Performance Dog at Nationals!!
I can't wait to (get my husband to) build some of the above. My inexpensive weave poles and tire jump were built using the following link which has diagrams, dimensions, and pictures. This may not follow standards for competition. But it sure is fun to expose them using the equip regardless. http://dogplay.com/Activities/Agility/index.html |
Here is another link to building your own , and as hubby is a retired plumber I should be able to find some of those pipes,elbows and joints in the garage 
http://www.caninecrib.com/dog/training/ ... course.asp |
| Cool pics, Dee! I know Dawn talked about using the hammer in ground method. Lots of people do. Added benefit: easy to take the show on the road. And I know one longtime OES agility person (also an agility judge) who likes them also because you can use any odd number of poles you wish and don't end up with a dog who has learned to count...
Question: what distance do you have between the poles?\ Also: I know I'm a kill-joy, but she's two young to teach to weave with closed poles. BUT, you can create either a V or a channel and get her used to the idea without stressing her spine. Some pictures on that tonight too. Though I dismantled the homemade "weave-o-matics" I had, I'll at least get a picture of my channel weaves, which can easily be duplicated with pound in poles (I am so jealous to see bare ground, you have no idea...) And maybe people can discuss how they teach their dogs to weave, and why that method. (Hint: all methods will work - some are easier for some people and for some dogs, but you can get the same results eventually) Pros and cons, guys? Kristine |
DandAbi wrote: Way to go Belle! Most Versatile Performance Dog at Nationals!!
Well, we'd like to take some bows but in OES it often seems like the last dog still standing wins (obedience high in trials are often won this way, though the last dog sitting is more like it ) But that dog often seems to be the oldest dog entered, proving that our guys only get better with age.Like I said - a bit of a fluke. You can do better. I can't wait to (get my husband to) build some of the above. My inexpensive weave poles and tire jump were built using the following link which has diagrams, dimensions, and pictures. This may not follow standards for competition. But it sure is fun to expose them using the equip regardless. http://dogplay.com/Activities/Agility/index.html Oh, man, don't get me into construction mode when we still have all this wretched snow on the ground... Kristine |
| I was all set to order fittings yesterday to make my own weaves - my new competition instructior wants us to use a different method and I figured we might as well try it out at home (although my stuff is in th ebasement not the livingroom). Now the idea of a tire - very cool! I really want to add a seesaw to the yard this year (Marley's favorite!)
ANy ideas on a good base? |
kerry wrote: I was all set to order fittings yesterday to make my own weaves - my new competition instructior wants us to use a different method and I figured we might as well try it out at home (although my stuff is in th ebasement not the livingroom). Now the idea of a tire - very cool! I really want to add a seesaw to the yard this year (Marley's favorite!)
ANy ideas on a good base? A good base for the teeter (I've built my own - the base was the easy part - attaching the board, not so much) or for the weaves? What method (weaves) does s/he want you to try btw? Kristine |
| MadDog wrote: Question: what distance do you have between the poles?\
I'd have to measure. But, they are far apart. I walk through them with Abi at a heel. I eventually want her to weave on her own off lead. Eventually, we'll add speed and bring the poles close together as you suggested when I won't stress her spine. MadDog wrote: Also: I know I'm a kill-joy, but she's two young to teach to weave with closed poles. BUT, you can create either a V or a channel and get her used to the idea without stressing her spine. We walk between the poles actually. I just wanted her to hear the command "weave" and understand the objective. Last day of puppy obedience the instructor had us all walk on loose lead and weave through cones to see if our dogs were paying attention to us and I just told Abi "weave" and she knew what we were suppose to do and we did it on a loose lead. She was teacher's pet- of course. |
jean wrote: Here is another link to building your own , and as hubby is a retired plumber I should be able to find some of those pipes,elbows and joints in the garage
http://www.caninecrib.com/dog/training/ ... course.asp Great link Jean. My husband won't like the idea though. (As if he doesn't have enough to do  ) |
DandAbi wrote: She was teacher's pet- of course.
Of course. All Old English are teacher's pet. How can they not be?
What you're doing - which is wonderful - has just entered Dawn's area of expertise - rally! Basically you're doing the serpentine if I understood you correctly. IF you want to do agility AND you want to use 'weave' as a command - don't use that word when you're heeling with her. Dogs can't generalize from walking through a serepentine with human to weaving through poles that are maybe 22" apart at speed. That said, what you're doing is fantastic for obedience/rally work. You can start focusing on dog following your body language for the turns instead of verbal commands (fine for rally, but in obedience you can't give all those extra commands anyway, and that is ALSO agility foundation work - she will learn to read your body to know what direction you want her to go in) You can still use the poles in the ground to teach her to weave eventually. I'll give you some idea how the channel method works later this evening unless someone beats me to it (guys?) Or shows you the slanted pole method. Both are safe for her and my apologies for presuming she was doing closed poles. Kristine |
| I will lower the tire jump as suggested. Thank you both for the warning. But what if... she asks to go outside (I think she has to releave herself), walks towards the tire jump and then jumps on her own, and sits at the other end and waits for a treat...I'm not asking her to jump she's doing it for a treat... I guess both are as equally stressful on her joints. She also jumps from the car seat of my Explorer. Should I stop that and make her first lower herself to the car floor and then jump? |
Mad Dog wrote: kerry wrote: I was all set to order fittings yesterday to make my own weaves - my new competition instructior wants us to use a different method and I figured we might as well try it out at home (although my stuff is in th ebasement not the livingroom). Now the idea of a tire - very cool! I really want to add a seesaw to the yard this year (Marley's favorite!) ANy ideas on a good base? A good base for the teeter (I've built my own - the base was the easy part - attaching the board, not so much) or for the weaves? What method (weaves) does s/he want you to try btw? Kristine sorry base for the teeter. As for the weaves she wants Marley to focus more on me not to go through the weaves with the here-there command . so we are focusing just on the sort of bend to go in bend back toward me (treat etc). Happily Marley doesn't seem fixated on old ways and once we show her a new way she is okay with it mostly. I have an adidtional way to teach the contact (very accidental as it were). When we got Marley in November I was in the house only two months (Marley was actually born on the day we moved in  ) anyway I "thought" at that time I could keep the floors clean (how expectations change) and when I walked her (and later Morgan) I had a yellow super absorbant towel laying on the floor and I would say feet and she would jump on the towel and stay there until I wiped her off and released her. Coincidentally now all I have to say is "feet" on a contact and they all hit the contact mark. As long as I say okay as soon as one foot hits we are home free - she never (okay jinxing myself here) misses a contact! |
DandAbi wrote: I will lower the tire jump as suggested. Thank you both for the warning. But what if... she asks to go outside (I think she has to releave herself), walks towards the tire jump and then jumps on her own, and sits at the other end and waits for a treat...I'm not asking her to jump she's doing it for a treat...
I guess both are as equally stressful on her joints. She also jumps from the car seat of my Explorer. Should I stop that and make her first lower herself to the car floor and then jump?Difficult!! You're just difficult, woman!! You were clearly meant to own an OES bitch!
OK, first things: you didn't ask her to jump, she jumped. Nice jump. But why is she getting a treat? (Oh, and I do this too!!) She didn't do what you asked her to do. She's begging. You're rewarding her for doing whatever she feels like doing. Wanna guess how that translates on the agility course? (three offcourse tunnels, ooops! eh - I meant jumps later.)
You owe her nothing. Receiving nothing, she won't keep jumping it. Do you have to lift her down out of the car, no. It's not the occasional jump. It's that once you start training, it tends to get repetitive. And that's not good for growing joints. Plus, we start pushing them. Abi flying over a 20" jump now and then for the joy of it, no big deal. She'll jump better now than when she matures and fills out - there's the irony of our breed. BUT, to save her for the long run, you hold off on jumping and weaving. Just like a kid. Kids can do amazingly athletic things but repetitive injuries to a growing body can leave them half way to crippled by their 40s. It's just a precaution. A good one. Especially for our late maturing breed. But, yeah, to look at them you'd be hardpressed to figure out why a dog who can jump 4-5 feet straight into the air shouldn't be allowed to jump.
Kristine |
kerry wrote: [I have an adidtional way to teach the contact (very accidental as it were). When we got Marley in November I was in the house only two months (Marley was actually born on the day we moved in
) anyway I "thought" at that time I could keep the floors clean (how expectations change) and when I walked her (and later Morgan) I had a yellow super absorbant towel laying on the floor and I would say feet and she would jump on the towel and stay there until I wiped her off and released her. Coincidentally now all I have to say is "feet" on a contact and they all hit the contact mark. As long as I say okay as soon as one foot hits we are home free - she never (okay jinxing myself here) misses a contact!Kerry - you may be able to market that one! Seriously. Kristine |
| Funny - the feet towel! I love the different uses of words.
Chewie learned a different version - it means I will touch each front foot and he lifts it to step into his harness.
"Shake" at our house means to shake off the water while in the bathtub. It works great. I rinse, pull the shower curtain and say "shake". Chewie shakes off, I open the curtain and I (and the bathroom) am still dry!
I have the stake in the ground weaves - I JUST got them together this fall and the ground froze. So, they sit in my garage, waiting... I am jealous of your real grass and unfrozen ground too, Dee. The rally serpentine is a fun thing to do. Objects 4-5 feet apart and wind through them. For fun I use the "gee"(right) and "haw" (left) that Chewie is learning for mushing as I wind through. I actually had a serpentine in the last show I was at and did it - it worked marvelously!!
For practice, I change my pace and body language too - he gets a big kick out of it. Chewie tends to be sedate (really!) and it keeps him guessing. He sees the cones and perks up - because he never knows what crazy moves I'm going to use. It works well in other exercises too. Chewie and I are just starting agility, so this gets me in the spring mood to get out and do stuff. And garden.... |
got sheep wrote: "Shake" at our house means to shake off the water while in the bathtub. It works great. I rinse, pull the shower curtain and say "shake". Chewie shakes off, I open the curtain and I (and the bathroom) am still dry! FUnny that's the only shake my dogs knwo too - as a matter of fact took me a minute to figure out whta you were getting at
I use "foot" for the halter - after all they can't get all four in at once  |
kerry wrote: As for the weaves she wants Marley to focus more on me not to go through the weaves with the here-there command . so we are focusing just on the sort of bend to go in bend back toward me (treat etc). Happily Marley doesn't seem fixated on old ways and once we show her a new way she is okay with it mostly.
Weaves are one of the few things I've never seemed to have a problem changing methods on and going back and retraining - don't know why. Whatever works, and it can vary from dog to dog. I like the channel method, though I have to say that though it teaches a dog to consider the weaves one continuous obtsacle and drive through them nicely, it does take extra work (or at least it does for me) to teach the entries. Anyway, I promised Dee I'd show her what they look like. I opened the channel back up and stuck the guidewires back on and played with taking some pics of Sybil last night, which was challenging since I was alone, Sybil thought I was nuts for changing the rules on her, and my camera isn't the greatest, but hopefully this somewhat illustrates the principle: Wide channel to start (I start with the full 12, but broke mine down to six a while ago because I was working entries - 12 is the same principle): 
Then you start to gradually narrow the channel until the poles are in a completely upright position (guidewires optional, though they do help in the beginning): 
If, by the way I was starting out and serious about competing and only wanted to buy ONE piece of equipment - this would be it. I didn't have my own to practice with in the beginning and it takes a long time to become proficient in them, so this is something it really pays to have at home (if you can make your own, great!) I figure if I calculated how many runs Belle and I threw away on missed entries or popped poles, buying weavepoles from the start would have been a very sound investment. Live and learn.
Kristine |
| Very good job Kristine - the photography and Sybil look great!
Did your wires come with your set, or do they come separate? Those look nicer than some I've seen. I would love some to snap on my stick in the ground poles when the weather gets nicer. |
got sheep wrote: Did your wires come with your set, or do they come separate? Those look nicer than some I've seen.
I would love some to snap on my stick in the ground poles when the weather gets nicer. Boy, I could have used your help with the picture taking last night! Sybil and I were outright swearing at each other before it was said and done  My flash is so darn slow I had to basically click before I even released her (well...) She was getting a wee bit annoyed.
I bought my guidewires separately, though I could have bought them from the same company I bought my weavepoles from. I searched till I found a company that was reasonable, I liked the construction AND they would sell them individually when I eventually needed to replace them. I.e. every time one of the dogs breaks one (and it's gonna happen with a green dog) I didn't want to have to buy another 5 or 10. Don't ask me what company. It's been so long I'd probably have to do a search all over again. But, yes, you can use the guidewires on weavesets you made yourself - just try to use a standard pole diameter and match that when you pick your wires. Kristine |
| Darn - I was hoping to pick your brain and save myself the search!
I was wondering how long it took you to get those pictures....(evil grin)... but they really did turn out well. Apologize to Sybil for us! |
got sheep wrote: Darn - I was hoping to pick your brain and save myself the search!
I was wondering how long it took you to get those pictures....(evil grin)... but they really did turn out well. Apologize to Sybil for us! I'll take a look at lunch time to see if I can locate the supplier. I have more Sybil pictures I'll post. The weave ones weren't too hard. She only got crankier as we progressed. It shows. At one point she did her best imitation of Eeyore. That was attractive... I was going to use somebody else, but Mace had been digging and had a face full of dirt, Che was on the grooming table drying (ditto - they hit paydirt - literally  ) and Liz had the zoomies. With the speed of my camera, that meant she wasn't even in the room by the time the picture was taken
I really need to join this century, technologically speaking. Kristine |
| Wow! That certainly gives me a visual. Thank you Sybil! I'm not sure how to make these...hmm will show my husband tonight. If someone comes across the site where they can purchase these please post. Kristine, you always take the time to answer my novice questions and I appreciate it very much. I also think others that view the posts will get inspired. Thank you. |
DandAbi wrote: I'm not sure how to make these...hmm will show my husband tonight. If someone comes across the site where they can purchase these please post.
Hi, Dee. Given where you live, you can stick with your post method and simply change the spacing of the poles. You start by making a channel and then just gradually move hte poles closer together until she starts getting the idea to bend around them. I have to have a base since I use them indoors (and it is easier than pounding and repounding) but with the proper spacing, you can have the same effect without going to a lot of extra effort. I'll try to see if I can find a schematic drawing to illustrate the spacing and Dawn can perhaps report back on her guide wire shopping adventures (you can make those too, if you're so inclined). Not that you have to use the channel method. There are others. Maybe someone else will share pics of what they do. Kristine |
| OK, the reluctant Sybil agreed to model the one rear toe on method, starting with the board on the floor, using the board sidewise just to get the dog used to stopping with feet on board (pardon the less than wonderful picture quality):
As demonstrated by Eeyore: 
Eventually you start using the board lengthwise (this happens to be an 8 foot board): 
Close up: (can have two feet on the board - point is must have at least one): 
You start by teaching the position, they need to stick and stay (you don't say stay - stay is inferred in the position you are rewarding) until they are released. This is actually a lot of fun to teach (and fun for the dog too) though it does take time and patience. You teach all of this before you ever put them on equipment (and even then you start with lowered contact equipment and keep proofing every step of the way), so you can do all of this foundation work at home and with a young dog. Though if you've never taught it before, you really need someone to guide you through exactly what you are trying to accomplish, why and how to break it down in managable steps so the dog can succeed. That would be pretty impossible using the forum, but I'm just throwing it out there as something to think about. Certainly you can get a board a clicker and teach your dog to love the board easily and at a bare mimimum. Kristine & Eeyore |
Mad Dog wrote: As demonstrated by Eeyore: Kristine & Eeyore LOL -Good thing I wasn't eating or drinking - I would have spewed over the screen! I get the Eeyore look from Chewie too - I just never thought of calling it that. Thanks, because now it will make me laugh everytime he does it! I did email the one company about the wires for my poles - I will get back to you all when I hear from them. I hope they are not out of stock, as I will order a set and try them out.  |
got sheep wrote: I get the Eeyore look from Chewie too - I just never thought of calling it that.
I've never seen it in her before, Mace and Che, yes, but we really were on the outs by the end of the evening. She couldn't understand why I would leave her in position for so long and crawl off on my belly to get a picture and I couldn't understand what was so complicated with the command "stay!". Of course, I was already tired from chasing her idiot brother around the house after his bath. I just expected him to behave like a normal adult dog, but he bolted, rolled his wet, hairy self on my bed, then bolted again for the den after I ordered him off, where he rolled his still wet hairy self on my sofa while his sisters pounced on him. And the full moon was last week, so there's not even that excuse!
Kristine |
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| OK, a final word for now till I can take a pic of my teeter base for Kerry this weekend (Kerry - you're going to love this <snicker>):
The table - a seemingly easy and innocent object. Or is it? Here's what I've learned (the hard way, per usual): teach an automatic down on the table. In USDAA it is always a down on the table. In AKC it is either a sit or a down on the table (NADAC has no table and I've never competed in any of the other organizations so maybe somebody else knows if they even have a table). The reason to teach an automatic down is there is no guessing for the dog. It is a black and white exercise: run to table, jump on table, fold into down, stay until told to continue on. It is easy to get a dog to go quickly from a down to a sit. NoT so easy from a sit to a down. (Waste of time if nothing else) You lose a lot of time and can easily stress the dog by asking him to run to the table and then guess what you want. Simple is better for the dog, faster for the course. OK, how to teach it: ask dog to get on table and lure into down as needed - a folddown/sphinx down - click. Don't ask the dog to down even if he knows the verbal. The exercise includes a down on the table: it's not two separate exercises (table-down). This defeats the purpose. In the dog's mind jumping on table and folding into down IS the exercise. Eventually the dog will start offering a down. (You're using a clicker or a verbal marker for this, yes?) Run with dog, run right past table, turn around if needed (for some dogs this puts too much pressure on them and can make them insecure, release pressure by facing in direction of travel - whatever it takes to get the dog to automatically down in the direction of travel (spinning to look at you and then drop wastes time and makes dog think again - this is not a thinking exercise: this is run to table and drop in direction of travel) Expect the dog to wait in that position until you release him. Then you start to increase distances and your body position and so on over time till dog can do this in his sleep no matter where you are or what you are doing. Come to think of it, Sybil kind of looks sleepy here. The end of a long, silly night (chew marks curtesy a number of several litters of OES puppies: yes, even Dawn's Chewie cut his teeth on this table ):
I should dig up some pictures of me begging for a down or even a sit from a stressed Ms Belle on the table, but you'll just have to take my word for it: the table can easily become stress center one in agility and it's so easy to waste time there. And so unnessassary. Kristine |
| OK next is a video of one of them going through the course. BTW, you are typing much faster than I am learning. Thank you for the efforts. I will return the favor with pics when I have my course built. I have a large room over the garage that I might transform. This would give Abi a place to practice away from the heat she will experience in a few weeks.
Thank you!!! Man, I had planned on working in my yard this year and making the front yard look more presentable. Oh well, fun comes first. |
DandAbi wrote: OK next is a video of one of them going through the course. BTW, you are typing much faster than I am learning. Thank you for the efforts. I will return the favor with pics when I have my course built. I have a large room over the garage that I might transform. This would give Abi a place to practice away from the heat she will experience in a few weeks.
Thank you!!! Man, I had planned on working in my yard this year and making the front yard look more presentable. Oh well, fun comes first. Oh, there are videos! Some really fun ones from nationals this past year too.
Dee - don't give up on the yard. I like your idea - get the front yard presentable, and let the back be fun dog land. Although you do have the heat.. I guess it's a trade off. We in the north are jealous of your unfrozen ground now. The bonus room over the garage sounds like it will come in handy soon.
Oh, and I am ordering the weave pole guide wires today. Of course, I do need ground unfrozen to stick them in. Perhaps I can find a patch by the time they come. |
| Oh, there are videos! Some really fun ones from nationals this past year too.
Is there a link for the videos? Oh, and I am ordering the weave pole guide wires today. Where are you ordering them from? |
Mad Dog wrote: OK, a final word for now till I can take a pic of my teeter base for Kerry this weekend (Kerry - you're going to love this <snicker>):
The table - a seemingly easy and innocent object. Or is it? Here's what I've learned (the hard way, per usual): teach an automatic down on the table. In USDAA it is always a down on the table. In AKC it is either a sit or a down on the table Okay - this is very interesting. we have had (recent ) table issues. None of my instructors have ever suggested training for the down - and mostly they always use the sit - I suspect because in most classes it is easier to get dogs to sit than to down. I saw a table at a flea market on the side of the road this morning that would be a perfect practice table - a large square end table which would only take a few cuts of the saw to have it the right height - guess that is my saturday morning plan |
DandAbi wrote: Where are you ordering them from? Tuffmutt - http://home.comcast.net/~tuffmutt/store.html |
got sheep wrote: DandAbi wrote: Where are you ordering them from? Tuffmutt - http://home.comcast.net/~tuffmutt/store.html Great site. Thank you. Now I'm thinking about my yard. Once I set things up, I guess everything has to be moved to mow... right? How do you all overcome that? Just get used to moving everything? The bonus room is looking better all the time. We don't usually cool that room though. It doesn't get used much now that the kids are off to college. Or...transform one of the boys' bedroom-it's actually quite large. How much space do I actually need? Have any of you ever measured the space your using? |
| Yep, you do have to move it to mow.
One of my friends moves her stuff only on mowing days (besides the moving she does in the process of using the equipment). She has a huge yard on the edge of town. Another friend keeps her's "parked" on the side when she isn't using it. I think she would prefer to leave it out all the time. But, she lives with her elderly mom, so I think they compromise! I am just starting to get the agility stuff. But, I do leave my rally courses set out from day to day if the weather is nice...... We tend to have a lot of wind, so this doesn't always work that well.
If you can work around your summer heat and humidity, doing it outdoors is really a better choice. More space, and a lot better surface for your dog. Less pounding impact out on the grass. Maybe you can do early or late runs outdoors. Work on selected skills indoors? |
got sheep wrote: Yep, you do have to move it to mow.
If you can work around your summer heat and humidity, doing it outdoors is really a better choice. More space, and a lot better surface for your dog. Less pounding impact out on the grass. Maybe you can do early or late runs outdoors. Work on selected skills indoors? I have the space outdoors. It will be trial and error. One, I need to see how much heat and humidity she tolerates. Two, I'm going slowly because she's a pup. Just thinking ahead (that's always my problem). Three, I've prioritized the CGC and the Therapy Certif. for now. And, four, I need to learn to show groom and decide if we'll go that route. But, all this advice is getting me anxious to get out there and PLAY! |
| The top OES agility handler in the US (Sylvia Calcano, for the record) lives and competes (though I think all of her OES are retired now) in Florida. As of right now, she has the only MACH and then MACH2 (MACH = Master Agility CHampion (AKC)) in our breed. Dee - if you ever have the good fortune to run into her somehow she can teach you so much!!!.
I know your summers, like Sylvia's, are much more brutal than ours, but even here in WI it gets hot and sticky and disgusting. There are a few things you can do. (1) condition your dog to the heat (that means she doesn't live 24/7 in A/C - doesn't mean you leave her out in the heat, of course) (2) work her early, early in the morning or late at night (hm, more floodlights might be your best investment )and for very short periods of a time. And some days, yes, it is going to be too miserable even at midnight, OES are prone to overheating, especially in coat - Sylvia's male started to overheat once and she's had to be especially vigilant with him ever since - and it can kill them. So you are definitely right to be concerned.
I trialed Mad in show coat one summer midday in upper 90 degrees and she left wilting Border Collies eating her dust (it was tunnelers, for those of you who know her well so we're only talking maybe a 20 second burst of movement) It didn't bother her, but she was conditioned to the hilt. And I STILL don't recommend it. But you know what they say about Mad Dogs and.... (Yes, that's how she got her name. In part).
Given the arctic weather we've had for months now, I couldn't take a single one of my dogs out tomorrow if the temp hit the 70s and not have them all wilt into nothing. Five months from now (lord, that long?! ) 70 will feel cool. To some extent (but more limited than us, since I can choose between longjohns and shorts) our dogs are like us in that they become accustomed to temperature changes if introduced to them carefully and over time. Up to a point.
Kristine |
kerry wrote: Okay - this is very interesting. we have had (recent ) table issues. None of my instructors have ever suggested training for the down - and mostly they always use the sit - I suspect because in most classes it is easier to get dogs to sit than to down. Yes, that's true, isn't it? I've always found it easier to teach the down as a default position. But just about every OES only national you go to the judges (who are always especially nice at nationals) will typically require a sit on the table. Must be based on their experiences as well. Mind you, I can't take credit for the description I gave for how to teach the automatic down on the table. I have a new instructor, I went to her with a basically green dog and said, "OK, can you teach my how to NOT screw up this dog?" And one of the first things she did was explain her theory re the table. She's an AKC agility judge so, as she nicely pointed out, gets a front row seat to people's table problems. Having been there, done that, I didn't need much convincing... I saw a table at a flea market on the side of the road this morning that would be a perfect practice table - a large square end table which would only take a few cuts of the saw to have it the right height - guess that is my saturday morning plan Frightening. Simply frightening. I thought I was the only one who couldn't walk past a pile of whatever and think "hm, I wonder if I could use that for...?" I'm currently looking for a big plastic barrel - I have the chute material, now I just need the rest. That and some nice weather Kristine |
Quote: I'm currently looking for a big plastic barrel - I have the chute material, now I just need the rest. That and some nice weather
Kristine Oh that so gives me ideas!!! and just this morning my Husband was saying "you are not going to turn the cellar (ohmigid who says cellar anymore?) into the dogs play area!!" I smiled and said (well after I said "omnigod who says cellar anymore ) "no honey don't worry it will all go out in the back yard in the spring
This may not end well  |
kerry wrote: I smiled and said (well after I said "omnigod who says cellar anymore
) "no honey don't worry it will all go out in the back yard in the spring This may not end well Oh my, that was a good one. Todd really doesn't care if it's there. He is not one of those anal freaks about a neat yard.. actually I wish he was a bit more than he is! We take turns with mowing - whoever has more time off when the grass actually needs it. What will get him is if he has to move all my stuff before he mows... can't blame him for that one. I say the same about his stuff! Todd has always gotten the big plastic barrels from work, now he says they can't get them anymore!! I will have to "repurpose" one that we already have, I guess! |
got sheep wrote: Todd has always gotten the big plastic barrels from work, now he says they can't get them anymore!!
I will have to "repurpose" one that we already have, I guess!Someone locally offered to "repurpose" one of their barrels for me. Problem was it had been a trash barrel and it would have taken an act of god to not know that...I know my dogs are part pig, but I think even they may have taken offense. I graciously passed
Kristine |
Mad Dog wrote: got sheep wrote: Todd has always gotten the big plastic barrels from work, now he says they can't get them anymore!! I will have to "repurpose" one that we already have, I guess!Someone locally offered to "repurpose" one of their barrels for me. Problem was it had been a trash barrel and it would have taken an act of god to not know that...I know my dogs are part pig, but I think even they may have taken offense. I graciously passed Kristine Ah, the one I am thinking of is in the barn (away from animal contact!) and is used to throw the used twine from the hay bales into. Then dragged out and the twine is burned. And yes Kristine, this is the same barrel that already cost Todd a cell phone! He may be glad to see it go..
He has used about a dozen of them down at the lake making float bases for their hunting docks - I should get a measly one! We do get metal ones too - and we use then for burning barrels. If I really had to, I could use 1 of them... but I hope not! They would take a lot more work and adapting to use. |
Eh, Kerry - it may take me a while to get you some better pictures of my teeter base
Extreme Agility, Wisconsin style (Lisbeth): 
Kristine |
| Not much teeter in that totter! LOL |
| That's Crazy! Love the pics |
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lisbeth looks lovely - sort of seems to be thinking there should be a pool somewhere under that snow! |
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| I've been saving this thread to read all at one time because I'm behind on posts and figured I'd just do one big read. Well, now I'm nauseous!!
Toby is going back to agility class in 2 weeks with a new instructor and I'm really hoping to get some better results than we had at the National. We did some agility work over the winter and the running and frolicking when off lead seems to be his preferred game. He is so going to Wisconsin! Prepare yourself Kristine! |
Maxmm wrote: I've been saving this thread to read all at one time because I'm behind on posts and figured I'd just do one big read. Well, now I'm nauseous!!
Toby is going back to agility class in 2 weeks with a new instructor and I'm really hoping to get some better results than we had at the National. We did some agility work over the winter and the running and frolicking when off lead seems to be his preferred game. He is so going to Wisconsin! Prepare yourself Kristine!Nauseous? Nauseous??? Why?
I'm preparing myself for the debut of some of my youngsters. Toby will seem superb in comparison no matter what you guys do. We have the Blonde one, the Wild one, and the Boy one. If I get all three of them that far that fast and can tolerate that much humilation in one day without breaking down
I think it's in Minnesota, though, if you're talking the national. Though frankly I can't tell those states apart either (flat and frozen, do we really care where the border is?)
Some times a new trainer and a fresh perspective can make all the difference in the world. And he'll be one year closer to having a brain
He could surprise you. If you guys walk away with High Scoring Nov A, you owe me a margarita (I'll be needing one no matter what for sure). If he does his own thing again, meet me in the bar and the margarita's on me. We can compare notes
If he and Sybil take off together and do their own wildass thing, I say we put them both up for auction. Proceeds go to rescue. Hey, every $20 helps
Kristine |
Mad Dog wrote: I think it's in Minnesota, though, if you're talking the national. Though frankly I can't tell those states apart either (flat and frozen, do we really care where the border is?)
Kristine No, it's Wisconsin. He's coming to your house! I'll buy you a Margarita no matter what! |
Maxmm wrote: Mad Dog wrote: I think it's in Minnesota, though, if you're talking the national. Though frankly I can't tell those states apart either (flat and frozen, do we really care where the border is?) Kristine No, it's Wisconsin. He's coming to your house! I'll buy you a Margarita no matter what! ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If he's a fraction of what you say, I'll need a pitcher. Or at least we'll split one. Kristine |
| Mandy I am planning on going with Marley the Nationals this year so elieve me Toby will be in good company. You will appreciate that more after the grooming weekend in April
Kristine I never made it to the flea market this weekend to check on that table. but I did buy pipe lengths to put together my own weave poles. When they are finished I will try to post a picture. Maybe even with Marley actually using them |
kerry wrote: Mandy I am planning on going with Marley the Nationals this year so elieve me Toby will be in good company. You will appreciate that more after the grooming weekend in April
Kristine I never made it to the flea market this weekend to check on that table. but I did buy pipe lengths to put together my own weave poles. When they are finished I will try to post a picture. Maybe even with Marley actually using them Kerry - fantastic!!!! And we're having a major meltdown here. No, the snow, not me (yet) so perhaps I'll get that base dug out yet... And between Marley, Toby, my nutcases, Sunny's Luca and perhaps a certain Harrington...(who am I missing?)...we need a game plan here for the national so we don't ruin it for the people on the West Coast when they have their national next year...we do want them to keep offering agility
Kristine |
| My weave pole wires came in the mail today! (that was fast - it seems like I just ordered them!)
Today surprised me. It started out sunny and warm, it still is sunny but not getting out of the 20's. No mud tracked in, but no thawed ground to test out the weaves with. How is that for a dilemna?? |
Mad Dog wrote: And between Marley, Toby, my nutcases, Sunny's Luca and perhaps a certain Harrington...(who am I missing?)...we need a game plan here for the national so we don't ruin it for the people on the West Coast when they have their national next year...we do want them to keep offering agility
Kristine well where Marley goes Morgan follows, and he is - well words do not describe. I registered him as Marley's back up for a herding seminar this weekend and told the instructor - "he thinks life is a party (well at least a treat bowl)." Prepare yourself for some entertainment! |
| OK, Kerry, just for you (Quid pro quo - I want Newfie pics, but since it took me six weeks or so to get you this I guess I can't be too obnoxious about it )
Teeter construction has one fatal flaw I haven't been able to overcome: the width is such that the board goes sideways a bit
You probably need to make the width just slightly more than the board to minimize that. Or, in my case, find some kind of hardware solution to minimize the swinging. But I do love the adjustable part of the design, and maybe it will give you some ideas and you can improve on the design and report back, so here goes: recall teeter in March:
Base: 
Underside of board with hardware:  |
Not that you asked, but since I'm on a roll and I do like this design very much:
Collapsable wing (hinged) for ease of storage and portability: 
Sybil modelling the jump (usual warning re rotten photographer applies): 
kristine |
And the easy extrapolation to using the double design for the triple:
Wing: 
I had a heck of a good time designing and making these jumps and even though it's probably more work (painting and all), discovered that I probably work better with wood than I do PVC. FWIW Kristine |
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