Looking for a reputable OES Breeder
I am looking for a dog sometime in Feb or March 2005 at the earliest. So no rush. If you are planning a litter then I will be most interested in hearing about your dogs. WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR IN A DOG: Female OES: gray, grizzle, blue or blue merle - either of the colors with white is fine. If at all possible I would like her head to be completly white - but I am fine with whatever - as long as she has a good temperment. WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR IN A BREEDER: 1. Shipping - if out of state - so it doesn't matter where you are from. 2. Two year genetic health guarantee in writing. 3. OFA and CERF testing (if not additional testing) on dams and sires and be able to present them through e-mail or fax if too far away if at all possible. 4. Dogs that are bred are as close to the standard as possible - if there is a small flaw with the puppy I am fine - such as an off colored eye or the hair is a shade lighter than it's supposed to be (because that's just silly to get upset about) - I want a pet quality dog so it won't upset me if she isn't perfect. I just don't want to see the mother and father being bred if they should be considered pet quality (fawn coats, amber eyes etc). 5. I would like pictures of the parents and past puppies if possible. 6. I would like it if the puppies were raised inside the home - but if a kennel is used in their upbringing I would like to know how many times they are played with - let out to roam - and possibly a few pictures of your kennel. 7. When my puppy is born I would like to have pictures...  for obvious reasons... *for the puppy book* This isn't required... but would make me very happy! Digital pics are fine!
8. General pricing would be nice - If you do not have a set price that is fine - but I would make me happy to have a general pricing range so that I can save the money needed. 9. A shot record from the vet and and a list of things I should be recieving with the puppy - a little food, a toy, a blanket or whatever is included with the puppy upon recieving her. 10. A few questions: How many times are your dams bred? How many litters do you plan in a year? Do you temperment test them? How do you socialize them? How many years have you been involved with OES? Do you breed other dogs? Have you ever had problems with OES breed specific health problems in your lines? How would payments need to be made? ___ I know that might seem like a lot - but it was sugested to me that I start looking for a breeder that could provide those things - or I might be at risk for spending too much for a dog that could have a slew of health problems. Also - because I want to make sure that I support good breeders rather than puppy mills. CH titles were also sugested - but I don't know if I mind about that or not. Just so breeders know: I am more than willing to sign a spay/neauter contract as well as a return form if I need to return my dog for any reason... which won't be happening... mwa ha ha ha... The dog will either be fed Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul or Wellness... not sure which yet... |
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| I found that the best place to find a reputable breeder is on the AKC site where they list local clubs.
Be prepared to make alot of phone calls etc and if the breeder lives within driving distance, take a trip to the home/kennel prior to buying the pup. Hope this helps.  |
| Go to the OESCA website and click breeder referral. The list can be awfully short: There just aren't that many quality breeders who go thru all the medical evaluations you deaire.
Be prepared for a complete exam by the breeders as they are very protective of their doggies. You might find most will only place with co-ownership. You appear to have done your homework regarding health issues, good for you! However, I'd put the coat color, markings, etc at the end of your list. A breeder breeds to improve the breed, not create designer dogs. If you happen to get one with all you want, great!!! Also be flexible for date. You may end up on a waiting list and have a year or two wait. You can't order up a dog with special features, this isn't Detroit. sheepieboss |
| I know - that why I said I wouldn't mind if she wasn't hehe. Your right though - I probably shouldn't ask for coloring at all. So if anyone is reading - scratch the colors. |
| i know a great breeder but the pups aren't papered. Do you need your pup to be papered? she welcomes questions. (i had a few too) my girl, bellatrix, that i got from her is awesome. she ships too
cher |
| Does any one know a good brreder with puupies in southern Calif ? I feel uncomfortable buying with out seeing the puppy .Any comments . |
| First I'd contact OESCA breeder referral service as found on their website.
Then I look to see if there's an OES club in your area........probably not, they are rare. Then I'd contact several all breed clubs. Most have a breeder referral service. If not then someone may know someone, etc, who has sheepdogs, etc. Internet searches for pups is another place, but you must do your homework well, knowing the proper questions and expect questions in return. There are honorable breeders who sometimes advertise on the internet........and a whole lot of terrible breeders. You must be able to tell the difference, but they sure won't tell you,
Finally, don't discount breed rescue. There is an OES rescue in southern California. I doubt they'll help you find a pup if that's where you need to be. But perhaps a rescue would work for you instead. |
Integra Hellsing wrote: 2. Two year genetic health guarantee in writing.
Just remember - a 2 year health guarantee usually means that they will "replace" the dog if it is found to have a genetic illness. Who would actually be able to return their dog after 2 years??? Believe me, I wouldn't be able to after 2 minutes! 
You may want to specify to a breeder that you want a full refund (or partial refund) if the dog has any health problems within a ??? period of time. Your best bet is to ensure that you go to a reputable, ethical breeder who performs all of the health screenings prior to breeding - that way you cut down your chances of health problems arising significantly. I would also not recommend getting a dog until you've met the parents and possibly the puppies - you can't tell their temperment through a picture. Kristen |
| Pretty much I've been coached on another dog forum about what to demand in a breeder. I'm not sure if I mind some of these things being changed around - because I would never bring back my dog after 2 years... no way! O_o |
| One way to help weed out the reputable from the distreputable breeders is the number and detail of the questions they ask you. If you think your list is long, wait until you talk to a breeder. Before I went the rescue route, I talked to some breeders for HOURS, most of that time they were questioning me. I was turned down (gently) by one for living alone and working full time: too many hours for a puppy to be alone. This process helped convince me an adult dog was a better choice for me. Good breeders should be interviewing you extensively before they allow you to even visit their homes/kennels. If you don't feel like you have been put through the ringer on your experience with dogs, knowledge about the breed and home conditions, you may not be talking to a good breeder. |
| Another good question to ask is "How many litters do they have a year?". I've seen breeders advertising a different litter each month - that would be a RED FLAG!
Kristen |
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