Question for Obedience trainers...
She is slowly picking up the basic commands but we are having problems walking on a loose leash. She wants to pull even with a gentle leader. We were taught to give her treats when she doesn't pull and when she starts pulling to stop walking, call her back and treat her for returning and then start walking again continuing the whole process. Lucy has improved some during class, HOWEVER it is an entirely different story when we get into the "real world"! At home she couldn't care less if I have a treat...she wants to GO! I know I have to be consistent but this is especially difficult because we are walking her for excercise. It's tough to wear the girl out when we're stopping after every step! So, my question is...can I switch training methods as long as the goal is still the same? The last few nights I started changing directions whenever she started to pull and she seemed to really respond. I, of course, did NOT jerk on the leash or anything..just changing directions. It really seemed to help because we were still moving (although not covering a whole lot of ground) so she was getting some exercise AND keeping with the no pulling rule. Is this okay or do you think I am confusing her in the long run?? |
|
|
I would say if it works keep doing it  |
| When I started with both Barney and Maggie to teach them to walk without pulling or lagging, I practiced left turns, right turns and about turns with each of them for 30 min per day for a week. By the end of the week I was walking both of them at the same time with leashes hanging loose over my shoulder. First time I ever had a dog that didn't walk me.
What you're doing is teaching the dog to keep its attention focused on you. Once you get this into them, Rally is a snap; all it is, is turns, stops and in advanced level, a jump. Once he gets good on the turns, work on the automatic sit, then work on backing up and teaching him to come and sit in front of you, then take one step back and call him to sit, then 2 steps back and sit, then 3 steps back and sit. Then work on pivot right & stop which combines the heeling and automatic sit, and 180° pivot (about face) and stop. It all reinforces one basic skill; Dog says to himself I better keep my attention focused on my master because I never know what she'll do next. Above all, after each successful response - plenty of praise. Also don't work on a particular skill for more than 10 - 15 minutes, give the dog a couple of minutes of free time before another session, whether its working on the same skill, or a new one. |
| Wilson's obedience school uses remote collar training but the foundamentals are probably the same. He was a puller, and I mean a puller!! at 4 months. Now we don't use a leash on walks and he has a perfect heal. We were taught to change directions whenever he starts to get ahead of you or wander off. So it sounds like you are doing the right thing!!
Happy training! Ashley & Wilson |
| Definitely a good idea. As George said, throw in the left turns, right turns, about turns as you are walking. Later in class I'm sure you will learning U turns, circle left and circle rights - add them in too as you learn them. Just walking in a straight line seems to encourage pulling in lots of dogs. Variety will exercise her mentally, as well as physically.
Another thing I have people do who walk their dogs for exercise is mix up the training and "free" time. This can be done with either your regular 6 foot lead, or if you use a retractable lead. Start out structured - do your training, work on the stuff you are doing in class. Then after 10 minutes or so, give your release command and let the dog be more at ease. (I say this assuming you are in a relatively empty, non populated spot) Another thing I teach is not to pull when they are at the end of the lead. Say I have my 6 foot lead on. The dog can roam anywhere in that radius. BUT, they aren't allowed to go out to the end of the 6 ft and just drag me along! I have a grunt/growl sound that means NO that I use. As soon as my dog hits the end, I give the grunt and pop them back - just enough that there is no tension on the lead. I just use a buckle collar - no training collar, gentle leader, etc. The key is to be consistant and do it evey time they pull - never let them walk with the lead tight and pulling you. Make sure you praise every time you do this. OK, back to the walk.... Alternate periods of training with free time. This way you can get your training in, and your dog gets exercise. You can even go in 5 minute cycles. The dogs really seem to enjoy this. I just say heel, bring my dog back to heel position and work a bit, then stop while they are doing something good - give the release command (I use "all done") and continue the walk unstructured. After a bit, say "heel" again and work on training. Etc.... I hope this helps, and keep up the good work! |
Didn't find exactly what you're looking for? Search again here:
Custom Search
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|